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6.2 Grumman charging question

DEERE3594

I welcome everyone...not just Penguins!
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Took over for a mechanic that they let go, in charge of about 12 Grumman trucks that have never seen PM, they all need either to start, rust, junk. But some how are still running with 500k + :eek:

Had one that the alternater pully split in half, any how the former mechanic put 2 new alternators on it and says it wont charge and needs a new regulator? He wanted to send it to the dealer. I thought the regulator was built into the alternator? Any idea where this is? What am I missing?
 
The regulator is built in the alt. Ether to start is a sign of bad glow plugs most likely. It also means that they're probably swolen and won't come out of the head.
 
Sounds like a wiring problem. Self regulating alt. Everyone knocks 6.2s but the last a long time if taken care. Just a pig to drive stock.
 
Take a pic of the alt some of those vans were retitled after a refurbish. Might possibly be older than one would think.
 
You do not necessarily have to remove the alternator to have it tested. If you have a parts store close you can just run the van over there.
Make sure the hot wire that is run to the battery from the alternator is plenty heavy. It should also be fused or have a fusablelink in it. Check the wire for continuity.
The alternator should be simple. It should be grounded through the block - test for continuity - from the alternator case to the battery ground. And test the hot wire for continuity - disconnect one end or the other first. Check the hot wire stud coming off the alternator. It should be 12.5 volts engine off, battery charged. bout 14 volts with the engine running.
Check the pully size on the alternator. A undersized pully will produce less juice at a given RPM.
Check the batteries with a load tester.
 
It's not unusual in today's crap made in china/mexico to get two or three bad ones in a row and most chain auto parts store idiots don't know how to properly test one. Best bet would be to have it tested by a rebuilder.
 
If you have an extra amp meter you can hook that in line with the wire that goes from the stud to the battery. That will tell you how many amps you're pushing and the volt meter will tell you the volutes. If the volts are good at the stud, 99% that the alternator is good. But sometimes the volts will be right & it will still not push the amps.
 
Nothing yet, Ill up date this on Moday with some pics. Havnt even tryed to start it. Been doing(trying :eek:) brakes on others, and fixing about 300 burnt out light bulbs, changing fuel filters that havnt been chagned in 150k, glow plugs ect.
Im keeping busy and loving it! Just wish it wasnt 15degrees out :D
 
Those things seem to be indestructable

It is amazing how any of them run, or dont get pulled over for no lights, broken windsheilds ect. They are bad looking. Wait until I get some pics :eek:
some of the oil filters are so old the paint has rusted off of them
 
So what did the old mech do take a nap on the creeper underneath them

Well in his defense he was told by upper managment to only fix them as they brake and to spend no money on ANY PM, so nothing was fixed till it broke. Only add oil. 5W 30 at that :rolleyes5:
 
I know an operator that has a boss like that. Buddy's the type of guy that if he has time he will do maintenance on his machine. He frequently has spans of 1/2 hour to 6 hours where he is just waiting. The boss told him the equipment didn't need maintenance as it was all new. They were trading machines every 2 years when everything was boming. I wonder if the boss will change his attitude now that things are slow and he might not be able to trade equipment so fast
 
Something else I didn't see mentioned here is the possibility of a drain on the battery. If after the battery has been load tested, the alternator/voltage regulator determined to be good, the wiring determined to be of adequate and the connections good there is still a problem it could be a short/ or drain on the battery - usually noticable by a spark when disconecting the cables or other wires.
 
Thing hasnt ran for over a week and started right up today, I checked the batterys they are at about 12V with it running.. Brand new batts and alt. anything to worry about? maybe bad grounds? Also the speedometer seems to be working as a tack some times...
 
Check the stud at the alternator. It should be about 14 volts running. I would definately give the wiring a twice over. somethings causing the speedo to flip around.
 
The stud at the alternator is showing just over 12V, I check and cleaned all the grounds, added some battery to block and block to frame/firewall grounds will no change. What am I missing? The thing runs fine, and starts right up.
 
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