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2006 K2500 Brakes

tanman_2006

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
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Seiling, Oklahoma
I am getting new brakes for my LBZ. The originals finally hit the squeaker at 240K. I am getting pads for all 4 corners.

I know to get Raybestos but for towing do I want ceramic or semi metallic. Noise isnt a factor just solid brake performance.

I am also going to change my fluid, any recommendations? Should I get braided steel lines? If so from where?

Thanks!
 
I like braided lines, but not sure where to get them for the newer trucks. The stock lines if still good are more than adequite on the newer trucks though. As for pads, RAYEBSTOS red ceramics were OEM. I like the RAYBESTOS blue ceramics for all around use, but there advanced technology semi metalics STOP you in a hurry. The only downfall is they make ALOT of brake dust, and I do mean ALOT! My wheels have turned black with them, and will not clean anymore. For fluid, use a good name brand DOT4 fluid, and you will be fine.
 
Is that better than mighty vac?

Blue ceramics? On rockauto is that the pro grade? I'm sure semi metallic will make my nasty 20" chrome wheels even worse.

I'm mainly worried about stopping loaded. Are blues or reds best?

My rear lines look pretty bad from snagging limbs off road.

source unknown
 
RAYEBSTOS red's are there service grade/OEM pads. The blues are the professional grade/AC DELCO DURASTOP's. Ceramics put out alot less dust, and the rotors on the newer trucks are designed for them, so they hold up well to them. The advanced technology RAYBESTOS are there severe duty towing pads. I've run them on a few trucks now that run loaded alot, and have had good results with them. I've only used the semi metalics though, and the brake dust is pretty bad with them. The ceramics may be OK in that line, haven't tried them yet to see. I know I have used the RAYBESTOS blue ceramics on a 04 K2500, and he was very happy with them.
 
I will probably get the Ceramic Pro Grades. I might not mind the dust on one of my older trucks but I'll keep it off of my newer trucks.

source unknown
 
Raybestos Blue are what I used. Very satisfied with them.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
They sell the advanced technology in a ceramic now as well. The reds are entry level, blues medium, and advanced technology are top. They also have a new element3 line out that is a hybrid combo fo semi metalic and ceramic that is supposed to be in between the pro and advanced. Can't go wrong with the blue proffesional grade pads though.
 
Rear advanced Tech Ceramic (non police package) ATD785C
Do I need the drag reducing clips?

Front advanced Tech Ceramic (non police package) ATD784C


​
 
I have a MityVac as well, and while it does a good job, I don't like it because it pulls Air around the Bleeder Threads while you are Extracting the Fluid, so you will never really know if there is Air still in the Lines or you're just pulling Air from around the Bleeder Threads.

So I got the Power Bleeder, and have been happy with it. I just use it as the Pressurizer, I don't fill it with Fluid, just keep an Eye on the Master Cylinder, and keep it Full and you'll be good.
 
Where do you get the power bleeder?

I guess I don't understand how it works. Does it push fluid from the reservoir out the bleeder valve?

source unknown
 
tanman_2006 said:
Where do you get the power bleeder?

I guess I don't understand how it works. Does it push fluid from the reservoir out the bleeder valve?

source unknown
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6QWSC/?tag=jhuntlink-20

Yep, you take off the Filler Cap on the Brake Rezzie, get out as much old Fluid as you can (Turkey Baster or whatever method you wanna use), top the Rezzie off with New Fluid, Screw on the Motive Adapter, and pump it up to about 15psi, then Crack the Bleeder Open on the Caliper and push the Fluid all the way from the Rezzie, and watch for the New Fluid to Flow out, Close Bleeder, and move to the next one. Be Sure to periodically check the Rezzie to make sure there is always fluid in it.
 
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Ended up with professional grade ceramics. The rears had bout 1/8" of pad left! Got the good out of those puppies. Fronts were bout 1/2 worn so either they had been changed before or I am pretty easy on the brakes unloaded.

I got dot 4 bled through 3 of the bleeders and snapped off the driverside front. So I get to fix that later.

So far it stops like a new truck. Bout 1/2"-1" less down travel in pedal and firmer when it gets there.

Next I will flush power steering system.

source unknown
 
That's why I bought all new bleeder fittings before I did the flush. Haven't gotten to it yet. Just took a look and decided I wasn't gonna get lucky on all 4 of em. Might get time after the 4th

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Mine weren't that rusty but that one didnt even budge. It wasn't leaking so I just drove home from the shop lol. I will get a couple new bleeder valves and redo it w/ a pump instead of by having someone pump the brakes.

source unknown
 
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