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1999 Suburban in Maryland

J

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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West by God Virginia
I may have already introduced myself here once before. I can't remember.

I just picked up a '99 Suburban 1500 with a 6.5td yesterday. It's got 230k miles, a bit of body damage on the passenger side, but it seems to run pretty well. The leather seats aren't too worn for a vehicle with that many miles. It's missing a few little interior trim pieces like a light cover, rear speaker cover, plastic cover on the rear seat handle, etc. Nothing I can't find at a junk yard pretty cheap.

The OBDII is showing two codes right now. One is for the boost sensor and the other is saying something about insufficient coolant temperature. The fixes I've heard about so far replacing the thermostats to fix the coolant temperature problem (already bought them) and buying the turbo-master boost control from Heath. We'll see if the codes disappear after I try those fixes.


I'm fairly new to diesel motors. I have a M35A2 multifuel, but I haven't done much motor work on it yet. I understand the basics of how a diesel works, but I don't know much more than that. I know a thing or two about auto mechanics, and I'm not afraid to learn more. Hopefully I can get this vehicle road ready and get some more life out of that 6.5
 
If you can post the codes that should help people suggest solutions for your problems.

PERSONALLY if you are wanting good mileage I would fix the factory wastegate. It might just be a cheap/simple sensor or vaccum line.
 
I'm pretty sure the one code was a 0236. I forgot what the other one was.

I grabbed a few pictures in the snow tonight:

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Anyone have an idea what these switches might be for?
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great looking truck. Ive heard of that code before, cant remember what it is right now, but Im sure someone will pipe up, it is a common one.

Those switches look like ones my 97 had, they go to an aftermarket remote starter I bet. Which is the single best mod I ever added to my truck. Cant wait to put one on my 94. I think the toggle switch disables the starter, the pushbutton changes settings or something. Check under the hood for a decal, a lot of installers will put a sticker for the remote starter there.
 
Nice looking burb from what I can see! Those seats are in GREAT shape, my 95 265K has some cracking and wear marks but only one small hole in the back rest where there is a crease and I thought mine were good, but they dont compare to yours.

Leather seats, all power, but has 4x4 lever and not push button. My kind of truck! I doubt that was a common combo in 99.
 
Welcome Again to TTS!

Nice Burb....Good Luck.

Might be Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) is bad and causing the Temp code......If your changing your T-Stats make sure they are AC Delco 190* or 195* and the only other type/brand that will perform properly is Robert Shaw 180*, if you have a Stant or any other brand, don't even take it out of the box, just return them and get your money back.

Also, the boost code....as stated above by tann, check your Vacuum lines for leaks, the vac pump and waste-gate solenoid....That should fix your code.

Check the Tech Ref Library for details....http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forumdisplay.php?218-6.2-and-6.5-Technical-Reference-Library
 
Welcome to TTS! Nice looking Burb. The code is an over/under-boost code, too much or too little boost for a length of time basically. I would try to clear it to see if it comes on again before you spend any money on anything. Mine throws that code from time to time because of my turbo master.
 
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As far as the low coolant code if the light is on the dash that says "low coolant" its the sensor plugged into the reservoir tank. If its an actual code then it probably is the CTS or the gauge sensor like Brooklyn said and if you are changing the t-stats get the ones Brooklyn is talking about for sure...... one on top of the engine by the t-stat housing (CTS) and the other is on the drivers side if the engine (gauge).
 
The switches look like one gos to the bank of relays at the top in pic. Alarm I bet. Did you get a aftermarket key fob with the truck?
 
I did not get an aftermarket FOB with the truck. I got a lock/unlock FOB with no battery and one key.

I'm returning my NAPA t-stats (don't fit!) and getting OEM ones today. What a PITA to get two of those bolts out of the t-stat housing! My coolant temp reading on the dash read just above 160 the entire 1.5 hour drive home, so the issue must be either low coolant temp or a bad CTS. I'm starting with the t-stats, though, because I don't know the last time they were changed and it's likely they'll need replaced anyways.


I'm thinking that those switches must be for a remote starter or alarm, as mentioned. There's a small antenna mounted inside the windshield by the mirror too. There are stickers on the front windows that say the VIN has been etched on all glass, so the prior owners might have been security conscious.

I hate vacuum lines...my blazer has had a leak for years that I have yet to find. My fix was to add a really big vacuum reservoir to help overcome the leak. Any tips for tracking down a potential problem in the burb would be appreciated. I've read of people eliminating the system, and that almost interests me.

This is going to be a family vehicle, but I might add on to the engine to give it some power for accelerating onto highways and such. We're at two kids and a german shepherd now, with up to two more kids planned. The whole reason I got a burb was because I refuse to drive a minivan. I want it to be fun too :)
 
The dealer didn't carry the thermostats or the CTS, so I just ordered from GM Parts Direct for about half the cost of buying from the dealership. In a few days I'll reassemble my burb and have it back on the road again. Hopefully that'll clear the codes for good.
 
If it is staying a family vehicle and used for road trips the vaccum set up gets better mileage in most cases. There are only 2 lines (i think) finding the problem is easy. Even I can fix them.
 
tanman_2006 said:
If it is staying a family vehicle and used for road trips the vaccum set up gets better mileage in most cases. There are only 2 lines (i think) finding the problem is easy. Even I can fix them.
Click to expand...

X2. Do a search and you will find the info on deleting vac pump if you go that route. I did vac delete on my obdII, but will stay vac on the obdI.
 
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