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1996 f-code. wastegate/turbo issues.

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
I figured rather than postjack Crankme69s thread, Id better start my own thread.

I have the ol e-bay special that I need to fix up so I can fall in love with and never sell to fund the purchase of a better bodied truck.

So now that that reasoning is out of the way, heres the deal.

When I first arrived at the guys place to finish forking over the dough and take the truck, he fired it up so I could inspect. First thing i did was pop of the oil fill cap, and she was puffy, so not the greates news there, but Ill try a CDR and see if that helps.

anyway the second thing i did was to try and move the wastegate. moved really easy. great. So I drove it home, all the while pulling down on hills, blowing black smoke, etc. So i figured either the solenoid is done, or the pump is done. so I popped off the rubber elbow that goes from the line directly from the pump and the line going to the solenoid. put pinky over line at idle, and didnt feel a thing.

Is this system operating on such low vaccuum that i would not be able to feel the proper vaccuum? as in low enough i need to buy a guage? If i should be able to feel it, and i dont, then there is nothing else other than the pump that can go wrong, correct? i did feel at the orange line from the pump, not the black to the turbo)

If I do swap out pumps, what is the best to go with?

Used original GM for cheap off of one of you guys via classifieds, Cardone rebuild for 120-130, cardone supposed new at 140, or new delco at short of 200?
and also, what years fit? is it 94-2000, or is there a break, such as 96 and 97?

i know ATT and TM will be reccommended, but I want to stay OEM for now. sadly because I was satisfied with the power levels out of a stock 210K 6.5L with no boost. therefore, no power adders are gonna need to be purchased for this ol gal.

any input appreciated, thanks!
 
Vacuum pump is toast. Should pull 26" HG at the pump. They suck pretty good.

Just get a rebuilt sucker at the parts house.

MGW
 
One of our vendors, Leroy, will sell you a vacuum pump - brand new $89. PMDcable.com

I think the benefits of going TM, exhaust, chip are really worth it, but if you want to stay stock, I understand that. Give Leroy a call.
 
just go ahead and order off the site direct? What brand are these new ones?

Thanks!

PS, if i do this, then I have to get the nice pulley puller kit i have wanted for a while. thanks for enabling me! :D
 
just go ahead and order off the site direct? What brand are these new ones?

Thanks!

PS, if i do this, then I have to get the nice pulley puller kit i have wanted for a while. thanks for enabling me! :D

Hello, Just replied to your PM. They are made by Linamar (same as parts stores) Excellent pumps, I have not had a "come back" yet.
You don't have to buy the puller most auto parts store have a loner you can use.
http://www.pmdcable.com/Products_and_Prices.html
 
One of our vendors, Leroy, will sell you a vacuum pump - brand new $89. PMDcable.com

I think the benefits of going TM, exhaust, chip are really worth it, but if you want to stay stock, I understand that. Give Leroy a call.
A good working vac system will out perform and mileage a turbomaster, with the right chip. Heath and kennedy will tell you that too.
 
A good working vac system will out perform and mileage a turbomaster, with the right chip. Heath and kennedy will tell you that too.

Yep, but given how often the damn things fail, I think that reliability is also a performance characteristic ... and the TM does give you that.
 
well, I am over 100 miles from an autozone, or any other chain auto parts store, so there is no way to get a loaner tool. I have been wanting a puller kit for a while, and I like to have a wide range of tools, So i want to buy a Lisle set, since they are all over this town, so therefore easily warrantiable.

The question is, is it fine to get this one: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=661
or is it worth the extra bucks to get this one: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=672

If i dont shop in the rust belt, There would be no need for the caged type (more expensive) one, is there?
 
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You've got the same tool on both links. Either should work fine.I only bought the puller. I use a bolt with a nut and several washers. The installer probbly works better.
 
ok, fixed it.

the second one is the more expensive, and it has a housing that surrounds the hub so there is no slipping, and I dont think it is worth the extra cost, but that is just me.
 
oh, sorry! fixed it as in my post, I had two of the same link to a pulley puller set, rather than two seperate links to two seperate pulley pullers that I am tryng to decide on buying.

but I just checked the tracking info, and it was delivered on campus this morning, and our mailroom closes at 3 pm, so I will get it tomorrow morning!
 
So far, I am progressing well on the ol Ebay truck, got the PMD relocated, and the fan resistor changed. But I have ran into a snag on the wastegate boost system.

I figured that before I tore into the vaccuum pump, I better check the lines more thoroughly that I did before. Good thing i did, there was a hidden section of damage hidden by the black wrap.

I am still pretty sure my vac pump is shot, but i still need good lines, so I was wondering, what is the PN for the complete vaccuum line assembly, sheath and all.

If that is not available, what is there for aftermarket solutions? Should a good auto parts store carry the right line? If they do, is the line seperable from the solenoid connector?

Any input appreciated, thanks!
 
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