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1995 Suburban engine cuts out for a second

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
Running down the freeway at steady throttle, flat road, I get a jerk like the engine was shut off for a moment (with the TCC locked up). It then continues to run like nothing happened. Fuel level was near empty, but, the gauge was still moving figure 5-10 gal left.

PMD resistor INOP and replaced by an external resistor. Optical harness unknown age. CPS new from engine replacement. PMD and pump not original but unknown age. New rebuilt injectors. New FFM and new fuel hoses. PMD on pump - like it would matter relocated in 113 degree heat we have now anyway.

Also I have been told the Cruise Control is now hesitating to engage vs. instant before. (I don't use it but other drivers do.)
 
Cruise control issue points to PMD. It was the first sign on my Burb. I hunted down a NOS Black Standyne. I have had nothing but bad luck with Flight Systems and I don't wanna be the guinnea pig for the grey standynes at 250$ a pop especially after reading there have been some failures already. Love my 93....
 
In AZ, it is probably does not make any sense to relocate the PMD outside.

If I were you in that location, I will bite the bullet and buy the Heath kit.
With 7 yrs warranty, that will return after 1 replacement.
It will probably have to be replaced every 2 - 3 years, anyway.
So you will get at least 2 replacements plus the original so the total of 3 PMDs.
It is mounted outside but again, it is warranted.
 
Could also be the fsos fuse losing contact for a split second. Mine would do that and sometimes quit.
 
What value of resistor do you have external to the PMD? Probably not the issue, just curious.

You would do some good by relocating the PMD away from the IP. I took measurements on my IP and the place that the PMD would be was the hottest place in my engine bay. That metal surface was consistently hotter than the air temp, hotter than the metal on my intake or the heatsink metal I had botled to the intake. So putting it just in air temp without the engine/IP adding to it is still better.

I have yet to have one fail in over 4 years, and I dont believe heat alone to be the issue, but large swings in temperature, like if you start the truck in below freezing temps most of the year and warm up the engine every day, or a few times a day. By putting them outside of the engine bay the PMD stays closer to ambient temp at all times, so less swing. Still not fool proof, but better. Additionally I would sand off the black coating of the PMD's mounting sink when attaching it to a metal heatsink, then ground the metal heatsink.
 
Think it is a #3 resistor.
My bad. Running B99 on a factory lift pump. :nono: I already know this. Why I am waiting to order Burning Oil's high pressure Walbro I don't know. Busy with other stuff I guess.

Replaced dead lift pump after the SOB stranded me at the gas station. Changed it with the spare lift pump in 115 degree heat on a dirt field. I was concerned that the hiss of pressure out of the fuel tank was a bad thing. Sure enough stalled after fueling. I changed the nasty fuel filter as well. Looks like the bio cleaned the system out. :agreed:
 
"missing" at hwy speed can be the 1st sign of PMD failure. Next comes occasional stalling, then frequent stalling, then a new PMD.
 
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