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1995 GMC Suburban ABS brake problems

WHMac59

New Member
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Location
Daingerfield, Texas 75638
Not sure this is the right thread to be under, however, I have to start somewhere. LOL!

Had to replace the rear wheel cylinders on my '95 GMC Suburban. Son had been driving when he said the ABS and Brake-light came on. I knew one wheel cylinder was leaking, but added fluid as needed. I suspect son did not check fluid level the days he was driving it and the fluid was too low.

Anyway, I replaced both wheel cylinders, brake shoes and pads, and because I saw what may be a leak from the master cylinder (MC) replaced it. I replaced the wheel cylinders around 10 years or so ago and the MC. Brakes bleed out just fine, then.

Now, however I have yet to get a steady stream of fluid from either rear wheel cylinder.

I get air out on the first pull, a stream on the second pull and then barely a dribble on the third and subsequent pulls. (Have used 2.5 quarts of fluid thus far).

While the motor is off pedal is about where it should be, until I crank it, then the brake pedal goes almost to the firewall.

I do not have access to an analyzer or scan tool for an OBD1 system to active the ABS to pump air out of it. At least I suspect it is air in the ABS, but have no sure way of knowing for sure.

Can anyone give me guidance or advice on how to bleed/burp the ABS manually? I checked with local shop in my small town and his old analyzer does not have the ability to active the ABS.

I saw a video where there is a plunger on the top of the ABS you can mash after someone holds the brake down to bleed air. Did this, but never did get brake fluid out of it as the man on the video showed. I didn't know until later there was a second valve on the bottom of the K-H ABS box. I am going to try that but am not holding my breath.

This truck is a daily driver and has put a crimp in me getting to work while waiting on the wife's vehicle to become available.

I have done many, many brake jobs in my life while putting myself through college and graduate school, (graduated in 1984). I have never had one I could not get a steady stream of brake fluid. Nor have I dealt with ABS systems or had to. However, the day of reckoning has came upon me and I am pulling my hair out for not having bought a "gizmo" scanner for this truck in 1999 when I bought it.

I have no pedal, that is, no brakes to even leave my yard to try and get the truck on the road to see if stabbing the pedal hard will activate the ABS. I have read this works at time, and the mechanic friend I talked to said that has worked for him and he could bleed the brakes after that and get all the air off. He did say, he could at least stop the vehicle, do not get no the road if I have no stopping function at all, which I do not.

Any thoughts and ideas on how to alleviate this situation, would be most appreciated.

I go by WHMac and my direct email address is: [email protected].

Thank everyone in advance that shares,

WHM
 
Might try reverse bleeding, Pushing fluid in from the bleeder. My guess is the proportioning valve is stuck off center. I've used a pump oil squirt can filled with brake fluid to do this on a clutch I couldn't bleed any other way
 
I am going to make a guess.
Might be that the front disc brakes is not totally bled and when trying to bleed out the rear brakes, after about three pumps of the pedal, the front discs builds pressure and then the pedal dont go down far enough to purge air from the rear cylinders.
You could try loosening the right rear brake cylinder bleeder screw and then it might possibly gravity bleed.
Be sure too that the rear shoes are properly adjusted to eliminate a lot of travel when trying to bleed the brakes.
Welcome to the forum.
 
I tried to upload pictures however, I am a dinosaur and haven't gotten it figured out. The ABS is a fairly large black box mounted on the left fender well, with lines all over the place, to the side and front of MC and booster. It has two black silicon coverings on the top and bottom that remove and there are plungers in them. I only mashed the top plunger but not the bottom. I actually saw the bottom plunger when connecting my battery charger for I had the doors open so long the battery ran down. However, the rain hit and I closed the hood and let my son go home.

Sorry, I failed to mention on the first post this is a 5.7 liter (350) small block.

Will pushing these plungers in help bleed the ABS?

I have the back brakes set up tight on the drums now but will try setting them tighter. I was able to get a good steady stream out of both disc bleeders, 3 times in a row, each time I bled the brakes. I will stop by O'Reilly's and get 2 more quarts.

How long does the back bleeders need to be open or approximately how long has it taken gravity feeding?

I have access to an air operated bleeder, have you ever used on of those with success?

Thanks for your help,

WHMac
 
I am not totally sure that the rear brakes can be gravity bled. If they can, should be dripping fluid within a few minutes.
If the shoes are against the drums, dont need to be any tighter than that.
When bleeding brakes. Always start from the cylinder or caliper that is the farthest away from the master cylinder.
If the power bleeder has capabilities to seal against the top of the MC then that would be the best way to bleed them brakes.
 
DO NOT PUSH IN ON THE VALVE LIKE THAT YOUTUBE VIDEO! Those are NOT bleeders, those are the valves in your proportioning/combination valve that is no longer being produced or available for sale, so if you damage it you're SOL. The video showing the plastic tool for bleeding does not apply to the 95 abs, you need to depressors to install over the proportioning valve to lock it in the center for bleeding. And you really need a tech2 to bleed the brakes. Otherwise you will need a dirt/gravel road to lock the brakes up on to get the abs to kick in to move the air out of the abs assembly. But this involves getting enough brakes to be able to lock them up. Once you get air into the abs system, you cannot get any sort of brakes until you get the air out.

These are the tools for bleeding the 95-02 abs system. You can also remove the rubber covers and put a C clamp over them.
FB_IMG_1617296632184.jpg
 
I have seen those tools before. Didnt not know whut they wuz fuhr.
Now I do.
I have never needed any of those, of course, this is the first truck I have owned that was newer than a 94. 🤷‍♂️😵‍💫😹😹😹
 
This is why I'm on TTS... because I learn all the time....I always figured if I open up all the bleeders (front and rear) and kept dumping fluid in the MC that would bleed any air out of the whole system and the abs box.. also would be best way to change the brake fluid...but guess that is the wrong way..
 
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