1993 6.5 diesel power steering mounting bracket removal

[nealpellecchia]

Doing the water pump. Got nut off end bolt...water pump shares the stud with the pwr. str. pump bracket. reached under found a small 15 mm bolt side ways into the block? removed. want to take a 15mm nut off the pwr str. to bracket but it looks like it might be a welded nut or it's a very tight nut/ washer cap type nut. Anybody know it all about this stuff? and the a/c bracket that must come off two studs on the left side? help.

 

[Burning oil]

More info. Picture?

 

[3500GMC]

Mine just unbolted.. No welds.. :dunno:

 

[GM Guy]

gm loves using bolts with a permanently attached nut halfway down. if you un-do the nut, the bolt will come with it.

 

[WarWagon]

2 attach points to the PS bracket and 2 nuts on the back of the pump.

Water pump at top of bracket, sideways block 'bitch' bolt, and two nuts on rear of pump.

Reassembly PS pump:
Loosely attach all other nuts and then look through wheel well to align the sideways bitch bolt. You will have to move the pump to get it started. After it is started and loose, tighten one of the rear nuts down then tighten the rest. If you have the other bolts/nuts tight you will not get the bitch bolt started even with a crowbar.

 

[nealpellecchia]

2 attach points to the PS bracket and 2 nuts on the back of the pump.

Water pump at top of bracket, sideways block 'bitch' bolt, and two nuts on rear of pump.

Reassembly PS pump:
Loosely attach all other nuts and then look through wheel well to align the sideways bitch bolt. You will have to move the pump to get it started. After it is started and loose, tighten one of the rear nuts down then tighten the rest. If you have the other bolts/nuts tight you will not get the bitch bolt started even with a crowbar.

my bitch bolt wasn't very tight. one off front of wp. , bitch boltsideways following the bottom of the bracket to the block?, So you say there are two from the ps into the bracket? very tight almost welded. Anyone have a photo diagram from a manual...?

 

[nealpellecchia]

thankyou.

 

[WarWagon]

The PS nuts on the back are lock nuts and stiff all the way off or on...

 

[nealpellecchia]

The PS nuts on the back are lock nuts and stiff all the way off or on...

So I won't break them off? It looks like only the PS pump must be moved and the alternator can stay. 1 nut off the front that the bracket goes on the outermost pump stud. one bitch bolt in back that extends on that skinny brace. And one lock nut off the stud from the pump through the bracket on the outside near the head. Right? And on the other side 2 nuts off the studs of the a/c bracket that also hold the pump and one nut underneath into the head on a bracket that goes down below the compressor. This bracket looks like it has another bolt in the center area behind the compressor but would be impossible to get unless I gotta move the compressor to get it! I don't think so cause why would they shoot that bracket down below the compressor like there giving you room? but they don't give you nuttin as I remember. I did this kind of work 40 yrs. ago.

 

[nealpellecchia]

a/c has to come off to. That lock nut is on a stud coming out of the pump. Can it take the strain I'm gonna have to put on it to get it off? It "looks" welded.

 

[Will L.]

That nut is a mechanical lock nut, like the threads are oval shaped instead of round. Like WW said, it will be tight coming all the way off. Not to say somebody couldn't weld it, but that would be hard to do. I use a thinwall socket with a 1/2" ir impact, spray in some pb blaster first and let it soak in a few first. Then squeeze that trigger with one hand and cross fingers with the other. If it is welded your gonna have to break it to get it out of there and fix it right anyways.

 

[nealpellecchia]

It's right next to the temperature sender. Before I start breaking it off, it does need to come off right? To get the pwr. steering out of the way.

 

[nealpellecchia]

I think it's only one nut on the pump.