I just picked up a 1989 GMC Suburban (older body style) with a blown 6.2L. I have a 6.5L Turbo out of a 1994 Chevy Truck available to me that I would like to swap in. I don't know how many miles are on it, but I would like to tear it down and re-ring it, along with new bearings, gaskets, and seals all around. I know there are some things I need to address during the swap, like the turbo interfering with the A/C box, having to reuse the 6.2L injector pump and lines, and upgrading the water pump, fan/clutch, and harmonic balancer. Is there anything else I need to look out for, like will the 6.5L flexplate work with my 700R4?
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1989 GMC Suburban 6.2L to 6.5L TD swap?
- Thread starter Nick_R_23
- Start date
6.2 and 6.5 flex plates are the same for all years but diesel specific. Your really don't need upgrades on the old body style to the fan clutch, fan, WP, etc. Getting away from the v-belts is a good idea however.
I would go NA for MPG getting 18 MPG in 4x4 or 24MPG 2wd. Simpler install. Going turbo I wouldn't bolt a GMX turbo back on a 6.5/6.2 again. There are several better and bigger turbo's out there.
Assuming the block is crack free I would use ARP head studs.
I would use gapless rings as they keep your oil cleaner and nearly eliminate blowby. (3K miles and you can still see through my oil rather then the usual soot black coal 6.2 oil is just after you put it in.)
The 6.2 heads and injector length will pose issues that require injector line bending to use 6.5 heads and injectors. You can use the 6.2 heads on the 6.5 if they are good. Make sure you use the 6.5 precups if you are going turbo otherwise use the econo 6.2 cups.
I would go NA for MPG getting 18 MPG in 4x4 or 24MPG 2wd. Simpler install. Going turbo I wouldn't bolt a GMX turbo back on a 6.5/6.2 again. There are several better and bigger turbo's out there.
Assuming the block is crack free I would use ARP head studs.
I would use gapless rings as they keep your oil cleaner and nearly eliminate blowby. (3K miles and you can still see through my oil rather then the usual soot black coal 6.2 oil is just after you put it in.)
The 6.2 heads and injector length will pose issues that require injector line bending to use 6.5 heads and injectors. You can use the 6.2 heads on the 6.5 if they are good. Make sure you use the 6.5 precups if you are going turbo otherwise use the econo 6.2 cups.
I'm planning on using this mainly for hauling wood (car trailer load full) and for hauling race cars occasionally on the weekend. I will be reusing the stock radiator, which is why I'd like to upgrade the cooling elsewhere as much as possible. Also why I am leaning towards the turbo engine vs fixing the 6.2 I already have.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
hey
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I see you made it on good luck these guy's know there stuff and will take care of you
Thanks, I've got a lot of questions now that I've been doing some reading. Seems like it's pretty 50/50 on whether the 6.2 or 6.5 is a better block to build, which heads to use etc. I've read that the 6.2s were prone to lower end failures and that the 6.5 improved on that, but then others say the 6.2 is a lot stronger then the 6.5, and the 6.5 blocks crack a lot. Same deal on the heads, it's pretty conflicting on which ones are bad.
Radiator is the same size for the 1980's through the 1990's. The airflow changed with the new looks. This is why the newer 1990's body style needs cooling improvements - lack of normal radiator airflow.
All GM 6.2 and 6.5's can crack. The 6.5 heads have smaller exhaust valves to help with cracks. The ones that are "bad" are the ones you have that have cracks. The ones that don't simply haven't cracked - yet. Only the redesigned military Optimizer GEP engines are not crack prone. Something we live with. I found cracks in the mains of my 6.2 and dropped it back in anyway. It will fail and bust the crank someday. A replacement surplus engine is $1200 delivered. I wouldn't used cracked heads though.
Look up The A Team Turbo before you bolt the GMx mess back on. It is unbelievable how much GM's small turbo chokes up a 6.5.
All GM 6.2 and 6.5's can crack. The 6.5 heads have smaller exhaust valves to help with cracks. The ones that are "bad" are the ones you have that have cracks. The ones that don't simply haven't cracked - yet. Only the redesigned military Optimizer GEP engines are not crack prone. Something we live with. I found cracks in the mains of my 6.2 and dropped it back in anyway. It will fail and bust the crank someday. A replacement surplus engine is $1200 delivered. I wouldn't used cracked heads though.
Look up The A Team Turbo before you bolt the GMx mess back on. It is unbelievable how much GM's small turbo chokes up a 6.5.
handcannon
Well-Known Member
Since you are planning to tow with this Sub I'd recommend the 6.5 serpentine belt system with the 2000 model year balanced flow water pump. Along with that get a heavy duty fan clutch and a DMax 9 blade fan. This pump will fit either the 6.2 or 6.5. According to Bill Heath the single stat crossover is better than the newer dual stat crossover. My only experience is with the dual stat crossover so I can't do any comparison here.
Going with the serpentine belts changes the direction the pump turns so you will have to get a newer reverse direction high output pump and the 2000 is the best of the HO pumps. I also added a second engine temp gauge and put the sender in the crossover block off plate that is next to #8 cylinder. With this you'll be able to monitor what is supposed to be the hottest running cylinder in the motor.
Although not necessary for towing, I like the CS144 alt over the CS 130. The CS130 is stock with the 94 motor and serpentine belt system. The CS144 seems to start charging at lower RPMs. It is physically larger than the CS130 so the stock rear mount will have to be either be modified or completely changed. There's been threads on this swap in the past year. I have gone to the CS144 and have had better results with it than the CS130.
Don
Going with the serpentine belts changes the direction the pump turns so you will have to get a newer reverse direction high output pump and the 2000 is the best of the HO pumps. I also added a second engine temp gauge and put the sender in the crossover block off plate that is next to #8 cylinder. With this you'll be able to monitor what is supposed to be the hottest running cylinder in the motor.
Although not necessary for towing, I like the CS144 alt over the CS 130. The CS130 is stock with the 94 motor and serpentine belt system. The CS144 seems to start charging at lower RPMs. It is physically larger than the CS130 so the stock rear mount will have to be either be modified or completely changed. There's been threads on this swap in the past year. I have gone to the CS144 and have had better results with it than the CS130.
Don