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162K miles, what should I do to it?

THEFERMANATOR

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Well I made the plunge and bought me a donor truck to do my DURAMAX/ALLISON swap today. The truck has just shy of 162K miles on it when it was wrecked in the left front. It currently has no radiator or intercooler in it, so I can't run it for long. She has been sitting since SEPTEMBER, but fired right up after putting a battery in her and drove on the trailer under her own power.

Since I'll already have the engine and tranny out doing the swap, what should I do to the engine while it is out? It had injectors done to it at 30K, so these currently have just over 130K on em. I was planning on doing a water pump and head gaskets as well as re-sealing the injector cups while it is apart and a set of glow plugs for good measure. Anything else I should do to it? Would injectors be worth the expense with these still functioning?

I know it will be tight inside it's new engine bay, so I would like to do any major work while it is out. And I am also going to do a SUNCOAST stage III to it while it is out. The engine is currently 100% stock, but I will be using EFILIVE to set it up as a stand-alone unit. I'll only be doing a mild tune to it if anything as a stock DURAMAX is ALOT more than my 6.5 had modded.
 
get the ijn bench tested... tell you balance, flow rate and return rate... iirc shouldnt be more then 50 each inj

GP dont really go out often... ohm check would be sufice

good fluid change/flush call it good.
 
I'll try and find a shop to check the injectors locally to me. This is one of the SUPER early 01's if it makes a difference. He said he ordered 3 months before the first ones hit the lot. He got the first one that came into his dealership in south ORLANDO. I had read about head gasket issues with the early 01's is all, and definately feel that a water pump should be done while it is easily accessible. Just trying to get some advice from those with these as common rail engines are new to me. I used to work on CUMMINS for a living, but got out of them before the common rail came out. So this will be a learning experience. It is definately quieter and ALOT torquier than my 6.5 ever was. It idled up onto the trailer in 4 low without needing to touch the throttle.
 
HG had problems... deff goods ideal.. head bolts are one time use... can be reused in a pinch ( i did) not recommended.

efi live wise put a 02 operating sytem in it. that will fix some of the quirkes with tuning 01s

def put a lift pump in it as well.

sound like you are shooting for 500-550rwhp max right?
 
I have a friend here with an LLY (04.5-05) intercooler that came out of a wrecked truck with like 30k on it if you're interested. Its only a couple hundred bucks if you needed one.
 
Unit453 said:
I have a friend here with an LLY (04.5-05) intercooler that came out of a wrecked truck with like 30k on it if you're interested. Its only a couple hundred bucks if you needed one.
Click to expand...

Could definately use it. I'm guessing that it's the one on craigslist then? As far as RWHP, I'm thinking 300-400 MAX for my application. I don't want to blow my 10.5" rear end apart or twist the frame. I'm mostly after improved milage and don't want to have to wrench on it all the time. I liked my 6.5, but it was noisy and always needed something.
 
You're running a DMAX through a 10.5" rear end?

I'm not sure if its on craigslist. I havent asked him about it. I'll call him tomorrow.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Could definately use it. I'm guessing that it's the one on craigslist then? As far as RWHP, I'm thinking 300-400 MAX for my application. I don't want to blow my 10.5" rear end apart or twist the frame. I'm mostly after improved milage and don't want to have to wrench on it all the time. I liked my 6.5, but it was noisy and always needed something.
Click to expand...

10.5 14b will handle 450-500hp
IF you want there is a guy selling a 1150 with 6,000miles on it for ~900obo
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50178
 
I figured the 10.5" axle would hold up good for my application since I won't be putting the weight directly on it that a truck would. Since this is going in a SUB, I obviously won't be putting 3-4K pounds of weight on it as I can't use a gooseneck or fifth wheel hitch. I was hoping to find a 2500HD, but this dually popped up and it was everything he said it was, so I bought it.
 
Well I got some PVC pipe and put that in where the radiator and intercooler would be at and drove it a little. The engine runs great when cold, but once warm it lopes a bit. No smoke or anything like that, and it only does it at a slow idle. It also makes a slight knock under load sometimes as well. It surged real bad when I first loaded it onto the trailer, but figured it was because of lack of mass air flow reading. With the pipe connecting the intake system it doesn't surge except at idle now. I also got a service engine light upon re-start, so I'll get it scanned tommorrow. I'm guessing it will be a code for the fuel pressure though as a search came back as the FPR as being the common part to cause this problem. It also seems to take a little long to start when warm.
 
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