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The truck's gone. You really wouldn't want to do the rust remediation on it in any case.

Manuals are still available.

Washington is doable. I'll send you a separate message with the Paypal info.

I just noticed you were in Canada and I was only planning on shipping items to the US. Small items like this get expensive to ship across the boarder plus you would end up with customs fees and sales tax.

Unfortunately I don't have one of those.

Off the label, lift pump AC Delco pn EP158 and GM pn 25115224

Lift pump is an AC Delco unit. I'll post the Delco part number tomorrow since I'm at work overnight.

Someone else is now enjoying the truck which is why I'm selling the manual. Hopefully it's someone who appreciates them as they got a great deal out of it.

I have the big 4 volume 1999 C/K truck (including Suburban, Tahoe, and pick-up) GM Helms service manual for sale for $110 which includes shipping to the continental US. Payment is via Paypal.

#1, 3, and 5 are sold, other items still available.

I have the following parts for sale as I'm getting ready to sell the truck. They will only be shipped to the contiguous 48 states except for the wheels which are local pick up only (located in central Vermont, 05060). I will need a physical address to ship to - no PO boxes. Prices include...

I'm hoping that area will stay fairly protected from the elements (right now it seems to be) so that any corrosion will take a long time to develop. I do like some of the other ideas about the battery box - seems more permanent.

Thanks for the background info. I'm thinking I'll go with putting in a rivnut and bolt on that passenger side. It'll be much more secure than the sheetmetal screw we get. The insulation I was referring to was the large pad by the sidewall. All the insulation stays on my cables. I do have...

Is the insulation by that passenger side body ground necessary? I'm tempted to cut away a piece of it and put in a rivnut so I can bolt the grounds on rather than rely on a sheet metal screw. Also, what risk is there in running some of the grounds directly to the battery ground terminal? I...

So there was a big ground problem - passenger side ground was loose. Tightening the passenger side body ground worked for now but who knows how long before it loosens again since it's just screwed into sheet metal. I think the threads of the screw are not biting like they used to or the hole...

So I've got some electrical gremlins in my turn signals with "hyperflashing" on the bad (passenger) side. So after changing out bulbs and cleaning sockets, here is what I have: On the presumed good side with headlights on and no turn signal: inner amber light is lit, outer is not (I thought...

Factory running boards should be no problem. The battery tray stays attached (unless I had some missing bolts). There is a stud running from that to a nut outside the fender liner and you just remove the nut. Just get in there and start unbolting. PA rust isn't so bad compared to up here. I...

I should also add that I was replacing the glow plug harness too and removing the fender liner made that easier. Otherwise, it's the rear glow plug that taking out the liner helps most with. The others can be done through the rubber flap if you do things in the right order.

The driver side is easily done with the rubber piece removed. On the passenger side I found it easiest just to take out the fender liner. Battery and tray can remain. There is a bolt going through the airbox (if your '96 is the same as a '99, I'm not sure though) and a nut holding the fender...

I did this this past spring and it was much easier to do after removing the fender well liner and the exhaust manifold and going from the side. It's a lot easier for tool access and you also don't have to disconnect the driveshaft. I'm sure someone had replaced something before so I don't know...