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Small Tsunami waves hit the California coast. Seemed like it took them 12+ hours to arrive.

Well the weight of the door is resting on the bottom hinge and bushings. So when I’m lifting the door, I am unloading the weight off the bottom. It’s not to say the top bushings aren’t loose. I will address both top and bottom with the oversize kit. I will keep the Cunningham Machine bushings...

Here is what I bought: https://endurapin.com/products/full-size-truck-c-k-series-silverado-sienna-k5-blazer-full-size-van-obs-1988-1999-full-size-chevy-tool-steel-oversized-bushing-door-pin-kit-customizable OBS 90s Full Size Chevy Tool Steel Oversized Bushing Door Pin Kit Customizable This...

Ccurrently have high quality bronze bushings from Cunningham Machine. They fixed most of the problem, but not all. I believe the rest is due to the hinge hole being worn. I ordered .02” oversized stainless bushings and pins from Endura Pin. May have to ream the hole a bit to get the bushings in...

Latch and latch pin are fine as both were recently replaced: The play is in the lower bushing of the lower hinge:

I’ve lifted the door and you can’t see the play at the hinges. While off-roading, you can see the door moving, or it’s the body flexing.

Everything is new and intact.

Both the striker and latch are recently new.

The 10% remaining rattles is from the door on the latch pin. After redoing the hinge pins and bushings a couple years back, the door rattle is much improved, but there is still slight play. I might have to go the route of overzsized pins and bushings from Cunningham Machine.

Replaced the clip that holds the lock actuator rod to the latch assembly. Also drilled the rivets holding the lock actuator to the inner door panel and replaced with bolts, lock washers and nylock nuts. It was flopping around quite a bit on just the rivets. Got it back together and the lock...

Actuator does not move or even respond. Been like this for awhile. Good news is I’m down to little projects like this.

Rear barn door lock actuator no longer works, so I have a new one on order. Question is how to remove the existing? Actuator is bolted to a bracket using the 4 small bolts holding the actuator together. The bracket is rivet to the door. Should I try to remove the bolts holding it to the bracket...

You’re right, get a new dash. My recent off-road camping effort have the existing dash breaking apart. I priced the aluminum one and it’s $2,000. Waiting for the pricing on LMC’a replica that they reportedly have started production on. If it’s priced like their ‘94 and earlier replica dash for...

What is the Kryptonite part number for the tie rod ends that fit GMT800 Spindle and GMT400 center link?

Sounds like I could use one. Are they hard to swap?

That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Although tests show no play in the UCA bushings, I’m wondering if new energy suspension polyurethane bushings would help here? Did I mention this is the tightes the front end has ever been?

I’ve replaced that plug before. Also the resistor.

I just ordered a GM Genuine blower resistor off Amazon. Pretty sure it’s the resistor based on the middle speeds going off and on prior to the sudden no work at all this am.

Blower motor no longer blows at all. It was cutting in and out at the speeds less than Hi. Now I get nothing.

As the title says the variable speed settings for the wipers is only producing low and high with no differentiation in speed between the two. Also, sometimes the wiper just fails to shut off for a long time. What part should I be looking to replace?