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I’m all good, no kung flu or China virus or bat cold or pangolin pandemonium. Moved to AZ, been workin. Truck is serving daily driver duty. truck scoots. Tows well, took it to Hammers in Feb. Runs strong and fast when that 351 spools. Exhaust alternates between black (good) and blue (not...

He’s shipping it to me today. Installed a new cartridge. He suspected the drain line was too small at -10an. I got new -12an fittings to make a new line.

Negative. Turbo is being delivered to builder today.

Yes. It was bubbling out of the housing. And not sure how much is in the CAC, didn’t look too much yet, but I found some runny oil in the hot side tube.

That’s what I’m guessing. The oil pressure is 25-40psi idle warm. The line is all -10an down to the side of the pan. It’s a 90* elbow at the bulkhead, but that shouldn’t be a problem. If he tells me to kick rocks, I’m going to tell him to get fckd. Then I’m going to talk to PDD about their...

Fresh rebuild. My exhaust manifold is twin volute/scroll and the turbo is open. I can’t imagine this would cause such a catastrophic failure. The drain is -10an and goes directly into the pan.

Got the truck from the shop Wednesday. Advanced timing to 18*, GSK, delivery valves, AFC Live. Cruisin around for about 30 mins. Pull off to screw around with the AFC Live, notice light smoke from tail pipe. “Is it lean? Wtf?” Gets worse. Pop hood, see oil bubbling from top of turbine...

I don’t have much a place to work on it right now after the move, so it’s been at a shop for a few weeks, at the back of the line, with a laundry list of little detail stuff that needed to be buttoned up. Also, I didn’t want to do it. I’m not too concerned, I have a work truck as a daily. it...

Left the truck at a shop in SD to figure it out. They did, it was the rod from the booster impacting the master cylinder, some washers used as spacers fixed it. Shoulda tried that first, womp womp. Down pipe is solid, no drone. abojt to order some Cummins performacne parts: GSK, plungers...

Ok, brake experts. I moved out of town, and left the truck at a Cummins shop to give it an general mechanical inspection before I drove it to my new home out of state. brake system specs: GM Hydroboost booster GM PS lines GM Hydroboost pump Wilwood MC Wilwood prop valve All new brake hardlines...

Lots of good news. Got brakes working, spent $100 on brass fittings for my heater lines, and had my exhaust finished. Still loud, but not like a dump truck.

Installed new booster last night, went to install (after store was closed), pedal was kicking back, pulled out of shop slowly into empty parking lot, no brakes. Oh good. Removed master cyl, looked in booster, there was no spring, rod, or spider retainer. Oh. Good. Luckily I got to o’reilly...

Pulled it apart, this is the main cylinder/bore seal. I think this is the culprit. I put a new one back in, but I blew out the seal I just replaced. Nailed it. New booster it is.

Just drove again, did the same thing, booster is toast. I ordered a rebuild kit yesterday, but I need this thing movin ASAP. At least I know how to remove a booster quickly now lmao

For anyone thinking you can just swap pedals, this apparently makes a difference:

So I pulled the booster thinking I could easily replace the pedal push rod, wrong. Then I started taking a closer look at the pedals, and then remembered a YouTube video where he cuts the tread part of the pedals and swaps the small manual one onto the automatic. And what I noticed was the...

How do I determine proper length?

I got rear driveshaft in and have been test driving it to make sure everything is squared away. One problem I’ve found, is the brake system is building pressure, and then they start dragging. The pedal eventually gets extremely stiff. My research has given me some possible culprits, as this...

Thanks, it will all be deep cleaned and chipped, cut, cracked, pieces replaced. Goal is to have it look factory new. Planning on new carpet and reupholstered leather too. But that’s a bit down the road.

Just got the cluster installed. Took it the new one apart, tried winding the tumbler for 30 minutes to match it with old, then realized I could just swap the “face” of the cluster assembly and entire tumbler.