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I don’t have much experience with their gauges but I do have a glow shift fuel pressure gauge on the A pillar upon my 96 gmc with the DS4.It does blink off and on a few times when I first turn the ignition on but after the engine starts I don’t have any issue. Do they have any other problems?

One last thing I did buy was a pair of headlights from Amazon.These have good reviews so I figured I’d go ahead and get them.

Although not related to the rebuild itself I did purchase a pair of 1980 headlight bezels and turn signal lenses since what I have are in rough shape.

Tonight I just added a 2” and 1” spacer with felpro gasket to raise the lower air cleaner lid so it wouldn’t rub or pinch the manual glow plug solenoid battery cables and also prevent the flexible air duct from chafing on the master cylinder.I used a new stainless steel threaded rod and new wing...

Both the crank and bearing should be dry.Also no oil should be found on the back of the bearing or on the main cap or rod cap.Once you check the clearance and remove the main or rod cap a light amount of oil will soften the plastigauge and you can scrape it off with your fingernail.Thats the way...

The way the seal is showing in your picture is the way it should be installed upon the engine block and main cap with the front of the engine facing the arrow direction.

The rear seal with the offset faces inward toward the engine when you install the halves.Those are much better than rope seals that were used back in the day.Also a slight dab of right stuff on the top of each end of the seal where the two halves mate down together is also a good thing to do to...

I definitely would stamp the rods and caps if your taking the engine completely apart.Are you just going to reuse the pistons and go with new standard rings?Or planning with oversize?

Doesn’t look all that bad but I have seen worse.Looks like yours has the reusable pan gasket which is great.The minute I see brown colored fluid I drain it off asap and go with a new filter.I did a trans fluid and filter on my 09 Pontiac Montana van today.Since I’ve owned it about 6yrs now I’ve...

Yesterday I finally got the truck out of the garage under its own power for the first time in 15yrs.The coolant filter is all hooked up with shutoff valves in place.I have a new 81-87 gm truck coolant overflow bottle which I got from Amazon.I’ll put that one in place and take off the 88-98 Chevy...

https://a.co/d/06NFWugI

No problem.I’ll post it for everyone.

Today I ordered a set of tan seat covers for my 96 gmc truck with the 6.2.I also have a center console on the way with cup holders.I threw out the original tan Center console many years ago as it was in pretty rough shape so I tossed it.Both items are coming from Amazon.

I always liked using the stanadyne performance or lubricity additive.

It’s also very easy to break the face cam on the throttle linkage.If the pinch bolt is overtightened it can break the face cam.

The standard volume pump is more than adequate for the 6.2.

I’d just buy a new pump with screen.The 6.2 never did use a high volume pump.Only the 506 6.5 diesel which had the oil cooling jets above the main bearings.

I’ve used both types of bolts.Never had an issue with either.Normally no additional sealer is needed.Its already preapplied when you buy them.

Today a few more parts arrived for this project such as a new flexplate/converter cover,2” intake spacer with felpro gasket. Not long ago I purchased a new cluster lense and printed circuit as what I have is in terrible shape.Some of the bulbs don’t make good connection and it’s just plain worn...

I’ve used both types.Never had a problem with either.