Thanks for some ideas.
It's a egr intake.
Is the early tstat crossover.
Gp controller was gutted when I got it.
I reckon I'll hold onto the accessory brackets for a bit.
I didn't think about the vacuum pump drive. Well, I did, just didn't know if it would be worth anything. Lol
I think I may...
Scrapping engine.
Pulling fuel system, starter, clutch/flywheel, maybe some other stuff.
Speak up if you want/need something.
Have radiator, oil cooler lines, and all that as well.
And a hmmwv IP.
Yup. Shot some penetrate into each hole.
Had to go back home to pull some 6.0 injectors though.. lol
Could even be in the trans. I might separate them, just to make things easier.
1982 "red block." With SM465 trans. Ran when pulled. When I got it was told it had around 80k miles on it. Doubt I put even 10k more.
Looking for around $750 obo. Can work out delivery up to 4 or so hours from 74070.
1982 "red block." With SM465 trans. Ran when pulled. When I got it was told it had around 80k miles on it. Doubt I put even 10k more.
Looking for around $750 obo. Can work out delivery up to 4 or so hours from 74070.
For some of these systems that are going over the relief pressure, could you not put in your own high pressure cutout switch?
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Guess you haven't seen some of the welds on those "professionally built" beds then, huh? Lol
Don't ever buy a starlight trailer.
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Couldn't find much. On another forum I think a guy has a service manual for one.
It's actually a ford new holland engine.
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Over on the ford side, the moog balljoints arent lasting most people even 50k miles if they're lucky. Some (many) wearing out sooner.
So it's kinda apples to oranges. Maybe the lighter gm front end is easier on parts?
Frequent greasing is likely the most important factor.
I did OEM DANA/SPICER...
Can't say that I've ever heard anything good about moog. Especially not balljoints in a 3/4 truck or bigger.
I bet you looked like the tin man after that anti seize. Lol
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This is from Wagner.
"An effective burnish cycle to seat the friction materials into the opposing rotor and drum surfaces requires approximately 200 stops. The 200 stops are consistent with the burnish procedure outlined in the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards FMVSS 105 and FMVSS 135. 200...