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does the issue stop when you remove the starter relay in the underhood box? I have a 2000 C2500 6.5 that is doing the same thing, removing the relay stops it so I feel that eliminates everything but cab wiring or switches. 97? I believe? and newer went to a wonky dual function clutch safety...

Hey all, I saved a 94 K2500 6.5L suburban from a Marketplace part out, was a bad OPS that eventually caused a bad PMD, applied Leroydiesel.com solutions to both, and it runs like a champ. However, the seller claimed the transmission was in good shape, and at the time it died and was parked 10...

Do you have any recommendations on what to replace for preventive maintenance on a higher mileage unit? like harness and solenoids, and how difficult that is? I have a 94 suburban that I just bought, seller acted like the transmission worked great, it was parked 10 years due to a bad LP letting...

Yes, I have swapped relays around without change.

Yes. Clutch safety switch still active.

Manual transmission of course! :)

So while we are discussing starter crank wire related issues, what would cause a 2000 6.5 to randomly engage the starter after engine is running? It has to be between the switch and the relay, as removing the relay prevents it from doing it. Think it's the ignition switch?

Cunningham machine bushings here too. Definitely buy their little install tool, cheap and works good.

Went back and looked, yup, I didnt pay enough attention. lol I get giddy whenever I find those in a pick and pull, regular flange nuts are easy to find but those are not.

I own both and I still prefer the electronic, and thats even with a more swap friendly manual. For the sake of controlling the 4L80E that would be my primary reason to stick with DS4.

What is wrong with your DS4? What is the reason for the swap?

technically the two you have allocated for heater hose tube are for something else, I think glow plug relay bracket or alternator rear brace. the original heater hose retainer bolts were these weird tall square headed nuts with a floating flat washer on a crimped flange on the bottom of the nut...

I personally run the OEM style. if yours it messed up from someone messing with it, both the 92-95 and 96+ part numbers are still available, genuine GM through rock auto for like $75. call me paranoid, but i like the way the factory hose routes near that downpipe, not sitting against or rubbing...

Came here to say what bigT already said... Im frankly amazed that is all that is wrong with it... for now... For random issues on different platforms that I dont want to join a whole new forum for, Ive had pretty good luck with google, but make sure to spell it out in such a way that google can...

any fresh codes? Thanks!

any fresh ones?

^everything above is spot on, torque king also offers an awesome rebuild manual and all the necessary tools. That 92 NV4500 wont bolt to your bellhousing, and I personally prefer the 96+ bell setup, so Id go out of my way to avoid leaving the OEM setup. Another option to consider is the NV4500...

looks normal to me? Its not a problem till the spring is laying flat. you still have arch and I bet it isnt close to on the bump stops. Also, you dont have overload springs, might consider getting a set out of a salvage yard? but honestly If I was you I think I'd get rid of the air shocks and...

I'd suspect a rubber line failing internally that acts like a check valve, flap of rubber lays flat and lets the brake fluid push past and engage brakes, when pressure is released and fluid begins to exit, rubber flap flops into path of fluid and holds some back. My unpopular opinion is that...

The GM factory turbo would like a word... lol The one positive of the horribly inefficient high drive pressure of the GM turbos is good engine braking. A GM turbo and working air conditioning seem to provide adequate drag for me coming off a mountain, but I do have a manual transmission which...