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Nice blazer👍

I just arrived home from work yesterday so looking forward in getting back at this project.

Looks like it’s definitely china.

I’ll certainly do that.Thank you will.Dbrannon also mentioned that as well awhile back.I was curious to find out first how the fuel pressure would turn out.

Thank you guys for your responses.I certainly appreciate it👍

Hey guys.I read online that 10psi is the limit for fuel pressure entering the DB2 and I’ve also read that up to 14psi is it’s very limit.Do you guys think at 9psi startup I’ll have a problem with timing becoming too advanced?Fuel pressure does decrease after maybe 15-20 minutes back to the...

I’m pretty sure it’s China.I’ll have a look though tomorrow on the box it came in to verify.

Here’s more information on this lift pump and the fittings I chose to use in the lower two pictures.

Absolutely.I hope it works out also will.I used new 3/8 fuel line hose as the supply.I’ll take a picture of the Delphi lift pump and the fittings I used tomorrow.I like the way it runs though.Much better than before.I have a digital fuel pressure gauge I plan to use to monitor pressure under...

In case anyone is wondering the Delphi FD0040 uses 1/4npt fittings on both the inlet and outlet.And it has no wiring connector on it.You’ll just have to buy one which isn’t a big deal.

After installing a new Delphi FD0040 lift pump I’m real happy with the way this engine runs now.Fuel pressure is 9psi on startup and drifts back to 7.5 afterwards.It runs smoother and starts up much easier.Fuel pressure with the previous lift pump was only 3psi which was a joke.I’m real pleased...

I don’t have much experience with their gauges but I do have a glow shift fuel pressure gauge on the A pillar upon my 96 gmc with the DS4.It does blink off and on a few times when I first turn the ignition on but after the engine starts I don’t have any issue. Do they have any other problems?

One last thing I did buy was a pair of headlights from Amazon.These have good reviews so I figured I’d go ahead and get them.

Although not related to the rebuild itself I did purchase a pair of 1980 headlight bezels and turn signal lenses since what I have are in rough shape.

Tonight I just added a 2” and 1” spacer with felpro gasket to raise the lower air cleaner lid so it wouldn’t rub or pinch the manual glow plug solenoid battery cables and also prevent the flexible air duct from chafing on the master cylinder.I used a new stainless steel threaded rod and new wing...

Both the crank and bearing should be dry.Also no oil should be found on the back of the bearing or on the main cap or rod cap.Once you check the clearance and remove the main or rod cap a light amount of oil will soften the plastigauge and you can scrape it off with your fingernail.Thats the way...

The way the seal is showing in your picture is the way it should be installed upon the engine block and main cap with the front of the engine facing the arrow direction.

The rear seal with the offset faces inward toward the engine when you install the halves.Those are much better than rope seals that were used back in the day.Also a slight dab of right stuff on the top of each end of the seal where the two halves mate down together is also a good thing to do to...

I definitely would stamp the rods and caps if your taking the engine completely apart.Are you just going to reuse the pistons and go with new standard rings?Or planning with oversize?

Doesn’t look all that bad but I have seen worse.Looks like yours has the reusable pan gasket which is great.The minute I see brown colored fluid I drain it off asap and go with a new filter.I did a trans fluid and filter on my 09 Pontiac Montana van today.Since I’ve owned it about 6yrs now I’ve...