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Thanks Jaryd, I half expected to get the truck and still hear the stupid ticking noise. Great group of guys at Industrial. I highly recommend them to anyone. They are a top notch shop and took great care of a customer. I won't hesitate to go there again.

An end to this thread. FINALLY!!! Got the truck back today, NO MORE TICKING! The shop still didn't know how my gasket decided to leak and not work its way into any coolant or oil but, its running strong now. The manifolds definitely change the tone of the exhaust and seem to drop egt's a lot...

Update, Truck is at Industrial Injection. They performed their own diag on it to make sure what my mechanic found was correct. Ran into some issues with them not hearing the sound, had to drive back down and show them. Not so sure how they couldn't hear it, its constant and loud, but I...

I placed an order for the Manifolds and Up pipes through ProFab Performance on Tuesday. Went for broke and upgraded to the heat treatment coating, also added the LBZ riser option to keep in compliance with the emissions laws here. Called them up this morning and was informed they will be...

Very much so. I got prices from 3 reputable shops in the SLC area, and of course my mechanic. He beat them all. I trust his work, his word and he backs it up with a warranty better than the next cheapest shop. I'll be carpooling with the wife for the next several weeks, counting down the days...

For those of you still interested in this train wreck of a thread. Finally, after having 4 different shops look into the truck the issue has been found. Head gasket leak on cylinder #8, hiding behind the pass side up pipe. Quote from a friend who manages a shop is $3500 plus parts (Gaskets...

Reviving this thread to give an update for those interested. I took my truck to another mechanic that maintains a fleet of duramax trucks. He is pretty convinced that I have a lifter tick problem. Going to pick up the truck from him and discuss my options. I'm really hoping this isn't the...

My plans exactly to ditch the fusible link and run a 1/0 fused instead. I have made the cable now just needing to install. I will be leaving the majority of the under hood wiring alone, but take the advice given and correct some of the grounding points with the 1/0 gauge I purchased.

I should have mentioned my goals before just asking about the Big 3. Just to clarify the 1100-1200 watts will be the total of the two amps combined. 100x4rms to the 4 door speakers and 750x1rms to the 2 subs. I do plan on engine off use. Not a lot but there are get togethers at the family...

Thank you all for your responses. @Will L. Thank you for all your insights. Everything you explained makes sense to me. Well... most of it anyway, your knowledge and understanding of electrical far surpasses most I am sure. Yes, my username reads terrible. It stemmed from when my friends and...

WarWagon, any particular spot on the engine I should ground to when I toss the straw wire ground on the dr side batt?

Thank you WarWagon that makes sense. In doing reading some sources said just to leave the original charge wire in place and add another run. Makes sense not to now. Also, if I am understanding what you said, maybe its best I leave the wire routing and endpoints stock and just upgrade the gauge...

Hello all, I am currently working on doing the big 3 upgrade on my 06 LBZ. I bought Knukonceptz kolossus flex 1/0 OFC, ring terminals, wire loom and a fuse for the alt portion to complete the task. In looking at the stock wiring setup though I think I'll end up rewiring all the battery...

One last update to this post. I took the truck to a local but reputable diesel shop. They spent 3 hours going over the thing and claimed to have fixed my issue. Loose egr/up pipe bolts. Went to pay and pick up the truck and wouldn't you know it, the damn thing still ticks. They cut their bill...

Btfarm, are you referring to the pass side up pipe? You can google search LBZ up pipe and be hard pressed to find the stock one with the egr riser. Even searching for EOM or STOCK and you get the LB7 variant which, I am not opposed to but due to emissions standards where I am I have to have it...

Getting the original dp out is a royal pain. You have to pull the turbo heat shield (cut mine in half and threw it away) then remove the dp heat shield and bend it all to hell to get it out. Also helps to loosen/remove the trans dipstick brace bolts. Finally you're to removing the dp and its a...

Just an update for those of you following. I took it to a friend's shop and had him take a look at it. He found a crack/hole in the 1 year old downpipe. I have to pull it and pull the wrap off to see what I'm up against but he assured me that's the source of the leak. From what he could tell...

Oddly enough, just picked up some exhaust wrap for my old ATC's header pipes. The DG pipes are great but have no heat shield on them. I'll spare a few feet for the up pipe and see where I get.

That's exactly what I equate this sound to, and the exact part I don't want to replace, mainly due to cost. With emissions tests here I have to keep the EGR. And of course that OEM rt side up pipe is twice as much as the aftermarket EGR delete one... :banghead: I'll take another look at the...

I'm assuming I should see soot buildup where the leak would be correct? At least that's how I've been going about this phantom leaky business. I am half tempted to pull the downpipe and fire the truck to just rule out anything post turbo (already pretty darn sure its pre turbo but the only...