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I looked at the wires in the little plastic holder behind the alternator and I didn't see any that were messed up. What do I need to look for on those power wires going to the FICM?

Only codes now are P0201, P0204, P0206, P0207, and P2146. Praying it’s not injectors

I second the chaffed wire or bad connection. I got it back together this morning and it ran perfect. I drove it around all day and here I am, back to the same problem. Batteries are unhooked and I'm taking a break from it. I'll go out in a little while and check on it

Ok I gotta go put the valve cover back on and I'll get every single code for you. Had the valve cover off because I ohmed out the plugs and I thought one didn't ohm right, turns out I had a bad connection with my leads. I'll get you the codes and make sure by you before a start randomly buying...

They were all P codes. I just don't understand injector circuit codes when the injectors are hooked up. I have a video of it running that I'm sure would greatly help yall but i don't know how to post it. The last thing I want to do is cause more damage. Could it possibly be the ECM? Its stuck in...

Your fine lol I know what you mean I have those days

Thats with the truck not running and the actuator unhooked. Should it still be stiff? I can't move the actuator at all and from reading yalls comments is good.

I haven't tried the waste gate with it running yet. I'll try it tomorrow when I get it back together. I had the idea that the guy who did the injectors didn't put the wires on them... I just wasted 2 hours lol. When I get it back together I'll see what the waste gate does. I just don't get how I...

Took the intake elbow off and the shaft has 0 play in it. Should I start pulling valve covers? I have a video of how its running if that would help

Went back through and noticed this, I had checked yesterday for a hole and there isn't one.

I'll go see if the same ones keep coming up. I know for a fact the injector circuit ones keep coming up

I have cleared them multiple times, every time I do the SEL won't go off, start the truck and the endless list of codes is back. I'll take the intake elbow off and see how the shaft feels. I just don't understand the turbo setting off this many codes?

I don't have all the codes because the list was so long but some of them - p0201, p0203, p204, 0A10, 161C, 2228, 3A40, 464C, 5258, 5E64, 6A70, 767C, 8288, 8E94, 9AA0, A6AC, B2B8, BEC4, CAD0, D6DC, E2E8, EEF4, FA00, 060C, 1218, 1E24, 2A30, 363C, 4248, 4E54 Also I was meaning the waste gate door...

Just got back from out of state and been working on it. Turbo is perfectly fine. It won't rev above 2000 rpm. And it doesnt sound right. Check engine light is on. Hooked my tuner up and theres tooooooons of codes. I have 4 codes that are "Injector circuit malfunction". Truck had 6 new injectors...

So could it be broke and stuck open?

Wastegate feels like nothing’s even hooked to it cause it turns so easy. And it’s lived in Arkansas where there’s no salt it has not even a speck of rust. I can’t even hear a turbo whistle though so I don’t really think it’s a leak. I could be wrong but I’ll look

Just bought my first duramax and I couldn't be more excited. Its having turbo issues though. It won't go past 2k rpms. It doesn't sound right cause its not making any boost obviously but you can't hear any whistle and I'm not sure whats wrong. Whats some possibilities that are wrong with the...

I know you say you have bled it over and over, but! I have one recommendation with that. The only way I've found that works is to take a big plastic syringe from the CO-OP, fill it with brake fluid, stick it into the bottom of the clutch master with someone under the truck opening and closing...

Shifter and probably transfer case I’m not totally sure if the push button transfer case has the rod sticking out for the linkage to go on

Manual 4x4 is much better. And no you also need a bell housing, and flywheel. Guessing by clutch you are including pressure plate, clutch friction, and pedal?