Permatex hi-temp thread sealant (white small tube)
ARP Thread sealant with PTFE
Permatex purple thread sealant
They all work for awhile, really. It's long-term and months down the road that they always leak. Not saying they all leak, usally it's just one under the cover on one obscure side...
They become apparent four ways:
1.) Oil Level rising.
2.) Reduction in coolant in the recover tank.
3.) In the CDR you'll see whiteish goo, or in my case the CDR Vent tube.
4.) One of the 4 exposed head studs will start leaking externally.
There isn't a "fix" I'm going to RTV my next...
On the pic of the VR gasket, where the fire ring and all moved towards the coolant port, did the Felpro gaskets with the re-inforced part move like that too, or just the VR gasket?
My gasket failures have involved the fire ring cracking on the re-inforced part and then pushing the gasket...
Pics please.
If you want the 88+ CDR setup, you gotta buy it all. The intake manifold, the valve cover, the CDR valve and the connector hose between the CDR and the intake manifold.
IMHO, the 82-87 Style CDR did a better job (unless rigged), the 6.5 don't care if it's in a 6.2 truck, cause...
Yeah, I usually let the machine shop install the cam bearings for this reason (not being happy with my results). They're too much fun for my tastes.
Bummer on the piston ring, could be a single ring from another larger OS ring set.
You should be able to get a single set, but if not in time...
You hit nail on head grasshopper. I dislike lots of black smoke, when the engine is running at WOT and the turbo is fully spooled, I'm expecting nothing more than a light haze. Other than that I've got too much fuel for air.
A little at a time does it. Many tracks I've raced at I have had...
I vote for gloss black paint on everything but the valve covers. The covers need to be whatever color you desire. Trust me, an entire red, cat yellow, or whatever block in color can't really be seen with all the old accessories on it. Valve covers can be seen.
All my signature engines are...
I've heard this is a great sealant as well.
I have a tube, ready to use, but chickened out as I'm plum tired of resealing them already.
I've used the Permatex white, leaked after awhile (runs on the track verses miles).
The ARP sealant is the current stuff I'm running. It holds on some...
The studs hold, they just allow coolant to enter the crankcase, so your lubricating system is unhappy.
One of the beefy bolt companies like ARP does make a set of non-tty bolts for the 6.5. Cometic sells these bolts (not studs) with their gaskets (or, I would assume, by themselves as well)...
You'd want the lock tite to only set up after you've stretched the studs to torque, so under a load. I don't know if that'd really help for removal though.
But yes, the key is install all the studs, then get the head installed and everything else torque on before the time limit where the...
Cometic wants 50RA or better.
The method mentioned slightly above this post on the heads studs will enable you a crankcase filled with glycol.
The fastener to thread bore size is tight on these engine, very tight, allowing little if any of the sealant to stay on the threads where it's...