Got it installed but I still had to crank on the cap with my filter wrench to get it to seal up. I don’t think I’ll keep it on here for long. Might end up going with the same filter setup I have on 95 truck
Well guys. I figured out why this FFM was leaking. Today I found it seeping fuel from the seal under the filter cap. Pulled the filter and since I don’t have and extra seal I decided to make one from some o-ring cord I have. I used one of the other FFM housings to size for the seal then...
Off the subject, I have yet to figure out why the jungle site puts this message on links to products. I am not an associate or affiliated in any way with them or products on the site!
The nice part of it is the housing has two inlet and outlet fittings that are 1/4" npt. you can easily add a fuel pressure gauge on it for testing fuel pressure weather it be a gauge directly on the housing or for mounting one on the dash, though you don't want a live fuel line permanently...
The filter I have with the clear bowl on my 95 came with a 12 micron filter, it uses a standard racor r12t filter. those filters can be had in various micron ratings. I run a fleetguard 2 micron filter on it. don't know if it filters water but has the bowl so water will drop to the bottom...
when I did the ones on the 95, it was a booger bear to get them out. had to pull the upper fan shroud off and lift the engine till the trans hit the tunnel on the cab. they barley cleared the cradle on the block. not to mention the contorting I did to get at the bolts up in the frame which...
Moving the FFM from it's factory location also has it's advantages, allows a much easier access to the oil pressure sending unit along with the ability to see down into the valley if a leak occurs from the IP. Just keep in mind if you decide to eliminate it, if you live in a cold climate...
Keep in mind about the two rubber hoses that run from this FFM up under the intake, one supplies fuel to the IP and the other is a drain going to a tee valve in front of the engine. these rubber hose are down in the valley of the engine in all the heat. they get brittle over time and can cause...
Check with your local welding supply to see if they handle this size tank, but this is a steal for the occasional need of a gas axe...
https://www.amazon.com/ehozirta-Portable-Oxyacetylene-Acetylene-Cylinder/dp/B0D26B3F5K
you can get torch sets fairly cheap on amazon, and if you don't want the expense of renting both oxy and acc, you can run oxy and propane. that's mostly what we use at my work. doesn't get "as" hot but will cut and braise well. it's when you need to cut thick steel or use a rose bud when you...
Will is right, your truck is now considered a classic. your truck is about to turn 30 years old! think about the rubber hoses coming off the tank sending unit, and any other fuel lines, brake hoses and more. it's all done it's job and then some!
if your fuel tank is full or has more than...
That little black square piece with the red dimple button and red wires is the primer switch. the PO had made those brackets for the FFM and wired in that switch. also not sure if he made the harness extension or bought it from somewhere that connects to the factory connectors for the FFM...
it was funny because that slop was what was holding the rod in the gear. the last maybe 1/4" of the rod had no wear so when it was cocked in that direction it kinda wedged its self into the oil pump drive gear! when I removed it from the drive, I had to lock the rod in my bench vice and tap...
Yes the rotor is one of the parts discontinued, but it doesn't mean the one in your pump is bad. I was looking online at some teardowns and I think the it might just need to be clocked to the right position inside the pump. the rotor is timed internally for the injection event same as an...
My 95 has a 5521 pump on it
Yes. I was asking Rockabillyrat on this wanting to get a visual on what the bulletin was talking about on the distributor rotor. if this is the issue on your pump, QS could possibly correct it easily if this is what he finds.