They prob just mean it's "special" because it needs 2 9005 Connectors, instead of a 9006 & 9005.
That's the only difference. There's nothing "special" about it, or anything different that would cause an Electrical Issue.
The fogs still click off for a split second when you do the fog mod and you have HID's in them.
If you keep halogen in there, they don't respond as fast as HID, so they don't flick off.
9011 HIR is the 9005 replacement, and you'll need to slightly trim the Tab at the 12 o'clock position on the 9011. You'll see what you have to do when you compare it to the 9005. It's VERY minimal.
That wouldn't be much of a big deal though. So what? It goes back to stock and you gotta pick your new Tune every time you start up. Still doesn't cancel out the ease of being able to switch the tunes on the CTS and still ALOT easier than running the Wires and Pinning Out the Harness to get them in.
Yep, still like that. I had a kid try telling me he had EFI Switchable Tunes on his CTS (meanwhile, it was just a Juice WA) and he just didn't wanna hear it when I tried telling him it isn't possible. I guess he never talked to someone that knew more about these Trucks than him, because I heard...
Of course I can't get my Steering Shaft to move so I can get it out to get to #4.
If it's not one thing, it's another.
Oh yea...now my Driver Side Door isn't Unlocking with the rest of the Doors. Gotta hit the Button a few times.
Anyone wanna buy a Low Mile Duramax?!
I remember back when I bought my Avalanche, they had a 2500 8.1L Model there. I wanted it just for the Big Block, but after talking to some people that had one, they said on a GOOD Day, they got 8-9 MPG.
So the same should go for a Pickup.
Shockingly enough though, and I don't see how it's...
No, you only drill juuust past the Threads...so that the part of the GP that is below the Threads is now "Milled" off by the Drill Bit. One you do that, it is now loose in the GP "Channel" and you can grab it and pull it out. No metal Shavings get into the Engine because the part of the GP that...
If you're talking about the Cummins, it could be blow by. It's not uncommon with them, and if it is, start saving money for rebuild.
After getting it warmed up, do this with the oil Cap (like shown in the Video below). If it's puffing White Smoke or Blowing the Oil Cap off, you got blow by...
I'm still gonna only change them as they go out.
I really think I'd lose it if I had more than 1 snapped GP at a time.
I kinda had a feeling something was up too. It was above 85* and for how long the GP light stayed on, I knew something was "askew" haha.
I'm never changing a glow plug on this thing again!
One thread I found I was reading and a guy bought a truck, it threw a Glow Plug Code, he popped out the fender liner, and there was a GP, already broke off like mine, WITH A DRILL BIT STILL STUCK IN IT!! Apparently the previous owner got...
Well, we got it out yesterday!!
Took just under 2 hours.
I used a Thread I found on another Truck Site googling to see what steps needed to be taken.
Tools needed:
Digital Caliper (So you can know how deep you can Drill before hitting the Electrode in the GP)
Drill
LEFT HAND 13/64" Drill...
There was def a Darker "Stream" in the PB when I was Spraying around the Threads.
It's to the point now, that the stream isn't there anymore when I spray it, so I must have been washing something away.
I'm hitting it now with some kind of Buildup "Buster" that was by the Carb Cleaner in Napa.
Yep, it's really kicking our ass. Used a Propane Torch on it and nothing.
So needless to say, if anymore GP's go out, I'm just gonna turn off the CEL with EFI and not touch them.