Search results

Will asked me to post the details on my UORVA turbo for my H1 (centermount). It's sold by ModMafia exclusively. They market it as a "300HP" turbo. Not sure if that is a standalone claim or not - but I'm 100% positive I'm pushing at least that much with all of my P400's upgrades and doodads...

Just stumbled across this great thread from 2019 discussing the very same issue that I've been hypothesizing about. Indeed it seems that the PWM frequencies from the PWM fan controllers are too high for an EV clutch. Looks like a fellow 6.5 guy was running the EV clutch back in 2019. Any one...

Just found this thread over at another forum from last year. Seems a guy did a similar setup on his GMT400 conversion van. He said he uses a "P59" to control the PWM fan. Does anyone know what he means by that? https://www.gmt400.com/threads/electronic-fan-clutch-information.62805/

The hall effect sensor in the clutch has a 5V reference signal. I've picked up a couple of cheap hall sensor displays on amazon to see if they could work for our application but I haven't had the chance to really dive into making them work. Finding one that works off of 12V DC but has a 5V...

An update on my experiment. Just as a preface, my H1 has a curb weight of about 9000lbs, and my trailer weights about 2000lbs. Brand new P400 (well, about 12k on it now) running about 15psi of boost with the HO injectors, new style waterpump with BRF, HS rockers and a tune. Every other...

No - because when that switch closes, the bottom half of my switch illuminates. It only engages when I have the A/C on. Testing has been done largely without the A/C on.

As @Will L. can attest, the H1 actually suffers from the addition of electric fans. Since our issue isn't with staying cool at idle but rather staying cool at speed. The electric fans actually impede airflow that the mechanical fan would draw. The only time the electrical fans are beneficial...

I eliminated the tee. The adapter I cannot eliminate as the probe is actually long enough to go to the bottom of the thermostat housing even with the adapter in place. Yesterday's drive to the gym and back (my debugging trip) was MUCH better. The disengagement was still longer than I'd like...

Ahhh... this might be the culprit then. Definitely a rockauto clutch - listed as "GM GENUINE" although I have no idea if that means AC Delco or not. It does disengage but its on for far too long. Perhaps the issue is the lack of airflow through the H1 grille hitting that coil to cool it off...

See my post above. It's actually acting completely opposite of that.

Beginning to think that this change isn't going to work for my rig. I got the engagement temp to the point where I can hear the fan engaged when my ECM-read temp hits about 201-203. However, once the temp drops below 180, the fan will stay engaged for 5 more miles or about 10 minutes before it...

I installed the Flex-a-lite controller yesterday and confirmed its operation. In the process of tuning the engagement point as its still running when the t-stats are closed. I put it in an aluminum project box since the area I mount these controllers is rather exposed (above the front driver...

Just an update, still running the Mishimoto controller until a new fitting arrives that will allow me to use the Flexalite controller sender in the t-stat housing. Going to add a tee with a bleeder valve too so I can ensure that the system is properly air purged. Should be able to install it...

Really because this is the most accessible area, and also because I don't really need the fan to kick in before the t-stats open anyways. Getting to the rear of the engine on the H1 involves ripping out about a third of the interior so if there's any alternative to not doing it, I try not to...

Just wanted to follow up on my experience so far. The Mishimoto controller is working but as others have pointed out, isn't ideal. I have it set at a point where the highest temp it kicked in at was 208'F (The H1's t-stats don't fully open until 212'F OEM, mine start to open at 180'F) under a...

I feel like I need to further explain the Mishimoto controller choice. First of all it had a lifetime warranty. That by itself was a major selling point. Secondly it seemed to be the only one willing to advertise adverse condition operation, meaning it had some level of water resistance...

Technically speaking the clutch itself supports PWM applications since the wires on the harness are there to give fan speed feedback to the theoretical ECM in an OEM situation. I'll take a look at the Flex-a-Lite 31163 Variable Speed Controller.

Thank you sir. Should be easy enough to get to. Might have to move the CTIS pump out of the way.

Thats what I was wondering - if there even was a driver's side hole lol. I just went down and looked and I didn't see anything immediately available in front of the windshield... was thinking it may be close to where the t-stat housing is attached but there's a big honkin A/C compressor in the...

The picture of the wire/harness is the controller box. Its a Mishimoto PWM controller. It has a dial in it to adjust the temp but its nigh impossible to really see where its set on their less-than-helpful chart of the settings. As for the location on the p/s head... thankfully I've got that...