I haven't confirmed a broken crank, just shows signs. I bought it as a parts truck, hoping to get it running and flip it, found the CP had waaay to much play. Didn't think a crank breaking could damage heads...
Yeah, not sure how I missed that. I have a spare block with a broken crank. Going to be pulling the heads off it here today. Hopefully I have something that will work.
Do you guys know if the oil coolers were different from year to year? I know the ports are 1/2" in the #506's & 3/8" in the #141's. I'm just wondering if the oil cooler hoses I have from my old '96 (leroydiesel.com) will work in this '98. With different block fittings of course.
The lines on my '98 look better than the ones on my '96. You know, not the ridiculous push-in clip kind. Thought maybe they were better. Guess I'll be replacing them too
got some questions while i wait for parts stores and the machine shop to open on tuesday
were their any years of oil cooler lines that were NOT problematic? or are they all junk?
recommended head bolts? dont really have the funds for ARP yet
what to use to seal head bolts and intake bolts with...
yeah its cracked, but its not even the worst. they all are. id say #8 is the worst
i did, they look fine. i dont have the stuff to do compression... yet. found an old kent moore tool kit for 6.5s. i should be able to all kinds of testing with it. whenever it gets here
my fault, shouldve...
I was actually thinking of doing the test again once the right side of done. Just to verify the repair.
I'll be pulling the head tomorrow. Just need to unbolt the exhaust crossover and the manifold and turbo will come right out.
Do you guys have any tips for physically pulling the head off...
ive never had heating issues, if anything it might run cold. around 170 degrees maybe, usually. might go up to 190 on a warm day.
im trying to stay open minded. are there any obvious signs for inspecting the heads and cylinders? or is it quite obvious?
can you explain this "decked" block? never...