Looks pretty cool. I have always like that body from GM. Those mirrors look just like the ones on my 03 dodge. Did you modify them to fit or buy them setup to fit?
I've seen and tried myself WD-40 a few times instead of ether. I think its suppose to be somewhat less volatile. Seemed to work pretty good. Spraying a lite mist while someone cranks it should be done with it also.
I just went through all this when I needed to replace the ones in my truck. I have a bigger injection pump so I went with new injectors to match it. I got brand new Stanadyne marine injectors and was around $550. Course I did the install of them.
I went back with the marine ones due to that's how the engine was originally built with. It'll get a true hx-40 one-day soon but I'm just starting a multi-state move so it'll have to wait for now.
Well I picked up the brandy new marine ones today. Now I just have to find time to install them. After much reading/thinking I decided that since that's what the engine was built with, I'd go back to those.
Thanks for the help.
So I read the link and saw that the one guy had ran the same pump I have and yes that injectors were shot after 10,000 miles but he didn't really say why. So now I'm kinda curious as to why/what the issue was.
I live just a couple miles from the beach so pretty close to sea level.
Oh I fully get verifing what setup I have. I want a good running setup but I want it to last too. So more reading to do. I'll check out that link.
Hmmm, that's interesting to hear. The HX40 I think spools a little faster then the ATT but I still wouldn't want to deal with too much smoke. A decent puff when mashing the throttle is fine and to be expected. I just don't want huge clouds of it. I'm very proud that I have my 2003 dodge tuned...
The fuel smells good and has good clear color to it. Plus just before the engine died this time around it had been just filled (16 gallons total) with an extra heavy dose of additive. A full 32oz bottle in one tank that works. So I'm pretty sure that the fuel is still ok. I always buy from high...
MMM decisions. So after some reading the stockers would be adequate for probably 90 percent of the driving that the truck will be doing. But the marine ones will allow for the full potential of the pump to be reached. If I'm understanding all that I've been reading correctly. Once I throw the...
The pump came on the engine. As for where the guys at the Diesel Depot got it, I have no idea. I just told them the power goal I had in mind at the time and that's what they built for me.
So you're thinking that the bigger pump may overwhelm the stock injectors wearing them out faster? If...
Very true, without taking them apart you can't tell. Hopefully I'm lucky and they are real ones.
No worries, I kinda figured that since they didn't know they were marine style till they took them apart.
I can live with civilized driving if that keeps it reliable.
Think I'll be...
From what I can tell without taking one apart they look to be genuine ones. They have the Bosch name on the side. It didn't seem like there would be a huge diffence between them from what I was reading. That is unless you're going for really big power numbers. I'm going for reliable with good...
So little back story, the truck is a 1982 chevy K-10 originally 6.2 powered but repowered with a modded 6.5 from the Diesel Depot back in 2003. The truck has been used on/off for the last tens years. Just recently I had to rebuild the engine twice (yes twice :mad2:). First time due to the...
OK, been having computer issues so couldn't response till now. I found a place on ebay that sold a seal kit, but to make sure I got the correct one I called them. When talking with the guy, Larry I think, he recommended also changing the advance piston that's in the plug. Cost all of $45.00. I...
I don't think it all needs to come apart either, but having never taken one apart its hard to tell from pictures in the manual. I do have an extra DB2 for the 6.2 that I bought but its not a complete pump to try a "test" teardown on.
Seal kits that are on ebay are cheap enough, guess I can...
So found an injection shop in the area. Guy said that those seals are only changable by pulling the whole pump apart. Which while you're in there you might as well do a full rebuild which cost between $500 and $600 depending on parts needed. So looks like I'm getting the pump rebuilt once I have...
Yep it's the plug that's under the lever on the passenger side of the pump. It's actually a very faint drip. when I had it pressurized it didn't increase the rate of leakage any. Actually when I would release the air most would come back out through the fuel inlet that I was feeding it in to...
Ok, I think I found where its coming from. According to the manual its the piston hole plug (trimmer side). Looks likes its coming right out from the center portion of it. Is there a seal behide that, that can be changed? Or is it more involved to fix?