You guys have too much time on your hands.
And to think, I've been searching high and low for extra power when I could have just hopped on eBay and bought a fan with an air filter and stacked some $30 chips on my truck and got all the power I would ever need. Better watch it Leroy, they'll put...
I didn't think about that. But if it wasn't symmetrical, I wouldn't even be able to use the icl to set the cam timing would I? Without sounding like I haven't degreed a cam since college (which I haven't), I'm not sure I would know how to find the icl on a non symmetrical cam. I would imagine...
I did that on purpose to confuse you.
I actually didn't even notice until you mentioned it. But once you said it, every time I scroll over the pictures, all I can see is a dial indicator going into the number one cylinder. Damn you lol
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Geez, I never got a single notification of any of the comments on this thread since my last post. Tapatalk is slacking.... It is notifying me ever 30 seconds on Nate's build but not once on my own lol
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Finally getting a chance to degree my cam. I ended up one tooth off on the cam to get it close. It currently sits at an icl of 114.5*. Spec is 110*-112*. So looks like I will have to get some offset keys and see if I can get it where I need it to be. Wasn't too bad though. I had to move the cam...
They do have government grants for virtually everything....
You could just be like the government and charge every forum member a small portion of their paycheck. Imagine what you could do then. You could even pay me to build my engine!
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I have very little problem with my truck running my current turbo. I could easily smoke out an intersection or whatever road I am driving down if I want to, but normal driving regardless of terrain or what I may or may not be pulling, I can keep it relatively smoke free. Now my turbo is smaller...
Looks a lot like the numbers for mine[emoji4]. I had the option of raising fuel output to higher rpms on mine so it wouldn't drop off like that, but like you, I figured I would be better off leaving it alone so I wouldn't be tempted to rev it any higher. You'll like how it runs just how it is...
Anyone try dropping pop pressure? I've heard mix thoughts on this. I saw on another forum a guy saying you couldn't run low pop pressures bc it would be too low and wouldn't be able to inject the fuel bc cylinder pressure would be too high. But at the same time, I saw (or read I should say) that...
Lol 3 weeks or 1/2 hr. The first time I read that I misread it as three years. I guess if your going for broke and all out, three weeks isn't so bad...
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I haven't said much about the cam bc I am more or less testing it to see if it will even work on the 6.5 the way it does on the Fords. He has some of the info on it posted on his site. It is machined to the same specs as his stage 1 cam for the Fords. These are the advertised specs:
Intake...
Yes, in his instructions that came with the cam (which is the instructions for the fords), it reminds you to adjust the ip to compensate for the other adjustment made. Basically it is just a matter of moving the ip to cam timing the same as you move the crank to cam timing, only opposite. So a...
I'll definitely be doing a dry fit and test. I would imagine that the fords run a similar stock cam, so I would guess clearances would be ok. But "imagine" and "guess" aren't exactly words I like to use when putting together a brand new engine that already has too much time and money in it. So...
So I was looking at the marine cam specs and if it the same as the stock cam intake centerline, then it is 101*. So if I am lucky and one tooth on the gear drive is 10*, then that would put me right where I need to be.
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And I am running the stock cam now. As of right now there isn't really going to be any other changes with the new engine vs the old other than possibly redoing the exhaust manifolds. But all the other performance parts are just being transferred from the old engine to the new. So I think that I...
I am not sure on the tooth to degree count, I was just going to say that I could easily figure up the amount it would change per tooth by counting the gear teeth. Anyone know the stock cam specs? This cam is supposed to be set between 110-112 icl. So if I know the stock spec, it wouldn't be hard...
How can you not do it that way? That is how it will be done. That is how it is done on the Fords. I guess if it can't be adjusted to make it within his spec by doing it that way on the 6.5, then I will be working on fine tuning it by working on the key. But for the Fords, the instructions simply...
I'll try to get a video or lots of pictures when I do it. Maybe it will make more sense with visuals rather than my possibly poor explanation.
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