I do think we will lose some MPG because of the diverter valve if it is on at anything above 1700 rpm. At least from what i have seen running tunes and playing with some of the issues the diverter valve creates. Under light load it may not be that much of an issue, it is when we are under load...
Guys I have my machinist working on it and also have a prototype already made but running into some issues with the valve actuation. There are a few ways to mount the vale on the unit each has benefits but each also has a different arc to move the arm through it's full motion without binding...
There is actually A LOT to figure out about how to control it. The tuning part is unknown it is hard to say how changing the waste gate settings will affect the other parts of the tune. Then the arc of the arm and the rod angle for travel and the duty cycle. Full off at a certain rpm or boost...
Well then let me see what can be done, I believe the vacuum waste-gate set up could be made to control it without to much work. Getting something that could live at the heat is the next hurdle.
Well long time no say in this thread, Finally have a tune that is livable for me. the tune has morphed a lot and I have scrapped quite a few that were not just right. It is all about compromise, you can have a good tow tune, fuel economy and power tune all in one. Also may be getting OBD2 tuning...
You are correct on both counts one is boost operated the BD and the QSV is vacuum operated. There has been some discussion and work on one specifically for the A-Team Turbo, Just have not got something that is dependable, You have to remember it has to take the heat and right at that point it...
I thought dyno numbers were the quintessential numbers? Now there was a thread that spelled out everything about the turbo, was a few years back. Been asked for a compressor map as well because they tell all. Fact is everything is a crap shoot until you run it and find out how the dam thing...
I did camber with a level bar I had made years ago when I did alignments with a tape measure and fixed bars on a rod. That was how we were taught, so that we could do a wheel alignment without the machine. So far I like my trucks steering much better it drives straight and true and tire wear is...
You may want to check your caster camber settings. I had to completely open up my caster camber slots to get the tires to stop killing the outer edge, and that cleared up the wearing front end parts, like the idler arm steering gear pitman arm, and tie rod ends. Have to do bushings now. anyone...
Because the turbo works and given some of the post I have heard of or been made aware of at another site by this individual, it doesn't make me all warm and cozy and wanting to share. Thanks for the positive though, you are at least consistent.:D
Would be nice if you could get the stock vacuum setup to control it. I actually could be programmed to come completely off at a certain rpm and load would want it to be completely off at highway for fuel economy. Interesting what kind of ideas someone can get from just sitting around looking at...
If you have lag your tune may not be set up for your configuration. Proper tune does not have lag. I get boost at 1250 rpm .5 to.8 pounds boost but it is positive none the less and more as it is loaded. wORKING ON OBD 2 set up so can do the tune for my product instead of having competitors tune...
I have a tune that is good for all around, I really really like how it runs and fuel mileage is good. This tune is in an obd 2 truck. Shouldn't detune unless the code 78 is setting which will happen with the gm 8 tune as the part of the tune that sets those parameters is not set for the ATT it...
Real time tuning for the obd one trucks is cheaper than the buying a tune , you can do it for about 400 dollars and be tuning your own truck. If you are interested. You get the program from Tuner cat and the definition files from Westers Garage, then buy the Moates Auto Prom burner and real time...