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@Stoney I don't know what year it changed but the later model trucks didn't have a true power steering cooler with fins and all. My former '99 didn't have it, my '95 does. The "cooler" on the later model trucks is simply a longer metal line that runs into the front frame horn on the driver's...

I didn't bother looking at the reviews, good catch Here's a link to a genuine one from an authorized GEP dealer, still cheaper than the Dorman and in stock https://real4wd.com/product/vibration-damper-6-5l/ I also have a used balancer from an optimizer takeout that I won't be re-using on the...

I don't like shopping on Amazon but here's a genuine AC delco balancer for $90. Says it ships in 3-4 weeks but way cheaper than $350... https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10154688-Original-Equipment-Crankshaft/dp/B0049Z68VM

@Twisted Steel Performance how does the set I had sent to you compare to the blown P400 and @93detroit 's marks? Thanks for looking out for all of us, is Leroy aware of this potential quality control issue? I am assuming the timing gear instructions don't say anything about degreeing the cam?

Will covered just about everything else, he's been around more 6.5s than most of us and even if he wants to spend all your money his intentions are still good 🤣 Since your engine is electronically injected you'll need to have the ECM (computer) tuned to allow for higher boost numbers and to...

Welcome! Fill out your signature with truck year & details such as transmission type, mileage, 2x4 or 4x4, and any mods (or say bone stock as you've already done) so that anyone who sees you post won't have to ask for the aforementioned details every time or on a different thread Lots of good...

@SnowDrift as was mentioned timing gears would probably help with reducing the risk of pistons hitting valves I think a slightly thicker head gasket could help as well? Any reason for not having the pistons machined outside of cost? AFAIK lowering compression will reduce mpg but make for lower...

I only get 13 mpg non- highway driving (not much better at 15mpg on highway) but I have a high rise truck cap covering a bed full of tools and lower compression in the engine. Interested to see if things are any different once truck is back online with DB2 and bigger turbo

In short, yes a mechanical swap is possible and worthwhile if you want to avoid computer gremlins forever. Downside with your setup is needing to purchase a standalone controller for the auto trans. This is why I personally prefer the manual trans but understand the automatic having its benefits...

Glad you've got forward motion on the project and will hopefully have a good running engine for years to come 🤞 With the heads being machined down like that, are the valves machined down on the flat face to match, or are the seating surfaces recessed accordingly? Also not sure if you've seen...

@Will L. what aftermarket cam options are out there aside from the Heath one? From what I've read the Heath cam is specifically designed to compensate for the imbalance in the exhaust in the side mount turbo design and whatnot. For those who want to get away from/ upgrade the stock setup, I'd...

Bummer I don't know if it would be worth drilling & tapping for slightly larger bolt and how that would play with the starer fitment Also just had the idea of getting quality grade 8 threaded rod, cutting to length and JB weld the threaded rod into the block, have the starter held in with just...

Apologies in advance for the all caps, but the emphasis is necessary... DO NOT START THE TRUCK UNTIL THE STARTER IS SECURED TO THE BLOCK IN ALL 3 LOCATIONS There is a starter bracket that mounts to the block and the end of the starter pointing to the front of the truck. Link to bracket here...

As far as I know the stock pushrods will work with 1.6 rockers, at least that's what I'm running. BUT I have reduced compression and valve reliefs in my pistons, so I don't know how essential those features are to the 1.6 rockers. Chris can speak to that better than I. If you look at the post...

Also take note of timing marks on crank gear, cam gear and IP sprocket gear. There's instructions on proper orientation for re- assembly, but doesn't hurt to have too many pictures of what it looked like before it came apart I don't know if the cam bearings are select fit like the crank...

I had a feeling the only difference between those two was the pickup tube size Care to share the proper part number for the P400 oil pump? I'll add it to my Real4WD order and have it sent your way

Fascinating! Thank you for sharing. Is the P400 oil pump different from the "deep pan" oil pump? I've heard of a "higher output" oil pump for the 6.5, but on Melling's website it says this "deep pan" oil pump should not be used on the standard grade engine...

Truly a work of art Chris. Thank you for sharing such great pictures and details a few questions from a curious mind... what pop pressure are your injectors set to? Would you be willing to share how to modify the oil pump for more pressure and flow as you described?

I can't speak to swapping from a 246 to a 241. I've never had to do anything with the torsion bar crossmember when pulling my case off the manual trans. It is a PIA to pull and reinstall as you essentially have to bench press the thing up sideways and then once above the crossmember rotate it to...

I purchased a few kits and a chain from Transmissionpartsdistributors.com as I couldn't find a kit like the one you found (didn't really look too hard on ebay I guess) and it seemed to be a bit cheaper to buy the bearing and seals kit, the small parts kit, and the chain to make my own kit I got...