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Yeah that's why upgraded mine. I couldn't grind the stems on my old one.

I have yet to grind valves on my set up. New valves are cheap enough I just buy new ones and concentrate on the seats. Mostly eliminates the stem height issue.

Your going from obd1 to an obd2 transmission. That's about the only thing, besides cooler lines, I can think of. Verify where the speed sensors are on both transmissions. If they're in different locations you might have issues.

-1.94 is as advanced as you can go before it sets a code on obd1. Obd2 it can go more without getting "stuck" and hard to get back in time. Advanced is probably the best place in AK to get a pump built here in AK.

You need to be able to see the gauge under load to truly see what the fuel pressure is. Temporarily tape a gauge to your wiper blade......

Is that under load?

So use the drivers side hole.

So my experience with mine so far is the clutch takes quite a while to turn off, I think it's the clutch and not the controller. I'm planning on drilling and tapping the coolant crossover plate over the number 8 cylinder to put my sender in. Had it in the passenger side temp sender hole...

Personally I think your IP is bad. But aftermarket CPS have been known to cause issues too. Did you try cracking the injector lines while running?

By doing what Doug said about unplugging the CPS and OS your basically testing which ever one is still plugged in. It can take ALOT of cranking to get it to start when doing this. When it does start it's in limp mode and should idle and run smoothly.

He's roughly 800-1000 miles north of me.

I'd crack the injector lines loose while it's running, one at a time and see if one cylinder is causing the issue.

It's not an issue of lining up on the next slot, the hole in the shank is to far away from the slots to engage them properly. Like having to drill the shank as you mentioned

Pretty normal for the cheap fuel pumps. Most make it about a year and then crap out. I went through 4 ,each lasting about a year before I got one to make it longer than a year. Could have paid for the raptor and only had to change it once.

My fuel pressure gauge never moves, you'd think it was broken. Lol

Must be a 95 I believe that is the fuel pump relay

I have an old makita

I just replaced the rag joint on my 99. Fairly easy job if you have a larger die grinder, as in not a dremel

So to keep this thread updated, I installed an Edelmann power steering box and an new rag joint and an Edelmann power steering pump and a pitman arm. I was going to do an inner tie rod but after I got the other stuff done it didn't seem loose anymore. I bought a pump for a 96 to avoid any EVO...

Today I'm installing a new edelmann box, a new pitman arm, a new inner tie rod end as the TTX one failed after just a few thousand miles,and a new power steering pump, and a new hose. Need to have it all done by Monday morning.