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Getting ready for an addition on my shop. It'll be 14x16. Going to move all my metal working tools in there. Trying to free up some wall space for some workbenches.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/8081674651889486/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks need to restore this one too Mike

Have you looked inside the tank? There's a screen on the fuel outlet. Otherwise carb. Can you make it run better using more choke?

Also might verify the purple wire is on the correct terminal

Take a separate wire and run from the battery to the purple terminal on the starter to test the selenoid. Depending on what he touched with the screwdriver doesn't prove the starter is working properly

Might check out the nbus on the transmission. Not sure if that acronym is right lol

I've never been into these hvac units, I'm guessing if my air doesn't seem to be solidly coming from the ducts called for then the actuator would be the issue.

So your blue lead is in the wrong hole, go down one. And the meter should be in the ma position.

Do the blend doors themselves have any replaceable seals?

I have a battery maintainer I bought at napa and it will do the same thing on a good system. You have a large draw to run down the battery that fast. You really need to follow that parasitic draw test Will linked for you.

Need to do a parasitic draw test. But yes an alternator can cause it. From your limited description it sounds intermittent. Maybe ignition switch?

The orifice holes are in hardened metal but not so hard as to be undrillable with regular drill bits. Keep the rpm down and have a spare bit handy. The raptor is not flow on fail but I'm not to worried. I hooked my to the factory fitting so I could use an oem LP if needed. I had to make the...

I modded my factory FFM to do a FTB. I also used SS braided lines. With my raptor pump hooked up to my factory lines my fuel pressure never varies, ever.

Pretty rare but waste gate flapper can become unattached from rod

Wow what surprised me the most was the HS rockers failing.

So laying in bed thinking about Doug's mud issue it dawned on me that the crossover/ thermostat housing is aluminum. Muratic acid and aluminum don't play well together. So you'd need to use something else or eliminate the aluminum somehow.

That brown mud is definitely not helping your cooling abilities. I'd flush the system and then bypass the heater core and the radiator and put something in that will get rid of the rust. Muratic acid comes to mind....

I agree with Chris you should be in the 2500+ rpm range. Waterpump moves more fluid than too. I don't know what that trailer weighs but just as important is the big sail it is. It is a wind anchor.

Unless your boost stays under 5 psi your going to use alot of water.

If your fan never turned off than you were maxxing out your cooling system. Lower Stat only helps to take longer to get up to temp, which can be beneficial in some cases. I'd be looking at one of Chris's coated radiators.