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Went back and looked, yup, I didnt pay enough attention. lol I get giddy whenever I find those in a pick and pull, regular flange nuts are easy to find but those are not.

I own both and I still prefer the electronic, and thats even with a more swap friendly manual. For the sake of controlling the 4L80E that would be my primary reason to stick with DS4.

What is wrong with your DS4? What is the reason for the swap?

technically the two you have allocated for heater hose tube are for something else, I think glow plug relay bracket or alternator rear brace. the original heater hose retainer bolts were these weird tall square headed nuts with a floating flat washer on a crimped flange on the bottom of the nut...

I personally run the OEM style. if yours it messed up from someone messing with it, both the 92-95 and 96+ part numbers are still available, genuine GM through rock auto for like $75. call me paranoid, but i like the way the factory hose routes near that downpipe, not sitting against or rubbing...

Came here to say what bigT already said... Im frankly amazed that is all that is wrong with it... for now... For random issues on different platforms that I dont want to join a whole new forum for, Ive had pretty good luck with google, but make sure to spell it out in such a way that google can...

any fresh codes? Thanks!

any fresh ones?

^everything above is spot on, torque king also offers an awesome rebuild manual and all the necessary tools. That 92 NV4500 wont bolt to your bellhousing, and I personally prefer the 96+ bell setup, so Id go out of my way to avoid leaving the OEM setup. Another option to consider is the NV4500...

looks normal to me? Its not a problem till the spring is laying flat. you still have arch and I bet it isnt close to on the bump stops. Also, you dont have overload springs, might consider getting a set out of a salvage yard? but honestly If I was you I think I'd get rid of the air shocks and...

I'd suspect a rubber line failing internally that acts like a check valve, flap of rubber lays flat and lets the brake fluid push past and engage brakes, when pressure is released and fluid begins to exit, rubber flap flops into path of fluid and holds some back. My unpopular opinion is that...

The GM factory turbo would like a word... lol The one positive of the horribly inefficient high drive pressure of the GM turbos is good engine braking. A GM turbo and working air conditioning seem to provide adequate drag for me coming off a mountain, but I do have a manual transmission which...

I think i'd get rid of the air shocks and try something else, I have always been fairly impressed with the ride of the gm 1 tons compared to other vehicles. With the overloads I wouldnt go after an overly stiff shock, something near stock rate, I run bilstein yellows on my 2500, plan to run them...

unless you bought your 98 new, im going to guess that a previous owner deleted it due to a leak or collision damage repair. Outside of flushing the fluid occasionally which is a good idea ABS or not, im not aware of any routine maintenance that the ABS system requires? Did that crew cab happen...

Cunningham also offers a nifty little install tool for the bushings, a socket, flat washer, and bolt works fine, but the install tool works great too! :)

Use quality slave components and you wont be dropping it, aka avoid chain auto parts store stuff. I was using the aluminum slave from o-reillys thinking it was better than the plastic for my external slave 95, and after swapping it 3 times I gave up and swapped it out for a LUK plastic and...

If you dont have disc brakes, leaf springs, and solid axles at all 4 corners, you dont have a HD. One needs to pay attention to any potential differences between a 10K GVWR pickup and a 11K (2wd ) or 12K (4wd) chassis cab though.

All this work to gut a reliable braking system and I bet you still have an automatic transmission. If simplicity is the cornerstone to all your mods, I would think a manual swap would take precedence over everything else. I guess call me crazy, but I always thought these had a good brake...

Last I checked the 96-07 bellhousing was still available new. The 92-95 definitely isnt, and was not the best design, kinda crack prone. All a guy would have to do is buy a clutch kit and hydraulics for a 96+ application to run the 96+ bellhousing, definitely the best route to take.

has anyone bought one off ebay, if so, any trusted vendors on there? looking to buy one, cant ever seem to find a deal on a genuine tech 2.