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Unfortunately with it not running you have to expect a garbage engine and maybe trans also. Any driving truck that will pass a smog test, you have to account for $1,000 in miscellaneous the first year or so. Not running-could be anything.

No way near 3,700 as is imo.

Have you tried the egg trick? Get the engine warm but not building pressure yet. Crack a couple raw eggs into the radiator. Then just drive. The egg cooks and once it gets to the leak it expands like expandable foam insulation and seals up the leak (provided it’s a small leak). I learned...

IMO fixing the cruise control is your best investment in time & money for for saving money in fuel used. Start by finding a schematic for it. Spray a little cleaner on the cable then spray with some graphite in an aerosol can. DO NOT add oil on the cable. I don’t use a desktop computer-...

You are 100% correct when a rotor or a drum gets warped from heat- IT IS NOT FIXABLE- REPLACE ONLY. You can’t turn them to eliminate it. This is the opposite effect of chryogenic treatment. You overheated it then altered the temper by letting it air cool.

You can look into an HHO generator but only if you are already invested in premium quality batteries and plug into a battery tender nightly- many that have them swear by them. Scientific minds say it is just turning the electricity from your house into dc power of your battery then the water...

Have you done TIRE CHALKING to know you have right tire pressure for YOUR VEHICLE? Tire pressure on the sidewall is to max out the weight capacity. And as you know airing down helps with traction offroad by giving a longer footprint of tread on the ground. If your tire is too wide for what...

with the numbers you are getting- idk if wmi will help much. If you gave egt gauge(s) you could report number on- we would know if it would help. The way most folks see an improvement is not just using water but the original term of wmi Water/Methonal Injection is the gains from cooling and the...

could be buddy, could be…

From the king of projects stuck on hold, I say “woohoo!”

That should work

When we spoke on the phone, you were sure it was front axle chattering. If not sure, get a line plug and seal the line for the rears. Test. Then swap plug to front and test. Doing this you will be eliminating the plugged axle from braking so keep speeds minimal.

No. Tbi should be easier on the rest of the engine than a carburetor IF it is working right. Tbi does not impact valve spring tension. That engine looks completely wiped out. At this point I would consider full rebuild vs replacement. Pull the block out & apart to inspect. Get pricing...

If you use a regular bolt/ nut- you want to use a large heavy duty fender washer or chunk of steel with hole drilled in it as washer on the underneath side. Look how the nut like thing is made underneath the truck now. It’s not just a hole and nut. It’s made bigger to spread out the load...

Yes - I agree. I have reused some. But when you consider the cost and the risk, it’s easily worth it.

Yup. Just remember: if the bolts are ever something like “tighten to XX ftlbs, THEN TURN 90° (or any degrees) - those are TTY bolts and are not to be reused.

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It all depends how much $$ you have for it. Do everything now and it all lasts longer. Or save $$ and diy the studs. Taping cast iron isn’t that hard. The holes are going to keep the tap straight. Plugging up the oil drain holes to make sure no metal shavings go down inside isn’t too bad.

Dude… 1968 with tbi? You need to add this rig to the list with what drivetrain and all it actually has. Also, for this situation- start it’s own thread. Too many things to go into and be able to follow up on it being mixed in with other trucks & stuff. Until you start that thread- tbi is...

Solder is the best. Jb weld is 2nd option. Things like pepper or raw eggs work but are a “get you home” solution.