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Metric offset wrenches.

Thanks, I ordered a set off Temu for $31 delivered to Montana.

Aside from the ABS not working, the rear brakes are back to working properly. Those rear bleeder valves are a pain. I need to bend an “S” into a long handle 8MM 6 point box wrench I have. Need to get the handle up and away from the backing plate. I did this grunt work while my grandson Jackson...

Bleeder valve fought removal and ended up stripped. Had to remove brake cylinder to remove and replace the bleeder valve.

Got it fixed, but it was a pita because the bleeder valve was stripped and fighting removal. Ended up having to pull the brake cylinder to remove the bleeder valve. Waiting for my son to be available to help bleed the brakes.

Found my problem with the rear brakes on the ‘99 Suburban. This is a pic of the passenger side rear brake piston. The piston rod fell out of the notch in the brake shoe, thus I was getting no brake pressure on that side. I will blame this on operator install. Second pic is of the driver’s...

The lights he’s using are by Lasfit and they all have fans on them. Paveltolz is just hard on things😍

Sorry to hear about your fall resulting in a damaged shoulder. Sucks on the LED light going out. Aren’t those things rated for like 20K hours? Good luck on the transfer case output seal. I take it the lack of winter weather is allowing you to work on the truck. I will probably roll through...

Driver’s side door latch rod dislodged from the interior door handle (a first) and was pulled up by the window. Took about 20 minutes to fix this. Not sure how this happened. Whole thing is a POS at this point.

Also go through the rear brakes on the ‘99 Suburban, replacing the cylinder with the original size.

My next job is replacing Upper and Lower Control Arms plus the shocks on the 2014 4Runner:

The alignment on the ‘99 K2500 Suburban is officially within spec:

I used a dremel to grind down the remaining knockout tit on the left side of the hole: UCA’s got new Moog HD Cam Bolts and Washers: Now it is ready for another alignment. Drove it around and it drives nice and straight with no pull.

OK pulled the driver’s side upper control arm (UCA) and the knockouts have already been removed. The front rear one still has a tiny tit piece of the old knockout. I guess I could go at it with a dremel. The alignment shop thought the cam bolt or washer was stripped and they were spot on. It...

I have a right angle 1/2” cordless impact that will go in there.

https://www.greatnecksaw.com/24210-gm-upper-control-arm-knock-out-tool-oem

Unfortunately, I got the OEM tool. It looks well constructed, but lacks the flange under the nut of the OTC version.

First comment on the YouTube video:

OK I’ll be taking on the removal of the knockouts for the upper control arms on the ‘99 this weekend. I also have new Moog HD bolts and cam washers to install. I will be using the OEM Knockout Tool to remove them, but I’ve been told by our local mechanic in Montana that the tool doesn’t always...

Update: Discussed the feint charge light and the sporadic no-start with my local mechanic on our loop road (he’s very good and wants to hire me when I retire, but I will only work on my cars). He said the no-start pointed towards issue with the starter. So I ordered new Denso Starter and...