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Yeah, the differentials are not designed to move side to side. Those bushings are not designed for side to side movement.

I never fear crawling under these trucks and inspecting. It’s how you learn and ultimately know your rig.

“See- that is enough to understand what info you are looking for. They weren’t trying to be jerks in the first couple responses. I read it and skipped replying because I didn’t understand what you were asking.” Same here.

You have had so many issues going on with that truck. I thought you said that you had the lift installed? Now interference from a 6.2 pan, vs a 6.5 pan. Remind me why a 6.2 was used in this truck?

Don’t grind your differential cooling fin. You’ve got to assume that is also structural. Better to install a 6.5 oil pan on it. I’m thinking your 6.2 oil pan came off a 2wd truck. P.S. wrote this before reading Brandon’s post on swapping in a 6.5 oil pan.

You should not have that much stress in life that you are waking up at 3:00 am thinking about shit. You are RETIRED!

That’s nothing!

Took some pics of the clearance on my ‘99 K2500 Suburban and it is substantial vs Paveltolz:

His biggest risk is the differential pumpkin moving to the right side, but that won’t happen by mount design.

Denise at the dirt track race is a nice view.

I glanced through the pics wondering how do you know where the original positions should be? Honestly feel for ya. I would have given up long ago.

This is so cringy. FUBAR’d to the max!

My point was that the space is unused in truck models.

For some of us, that space has a purpose:

Looks like the same procedure. Filter is really a fine mesh screen which can be cleaned and re-used. I generally change them. Clean the pan and magnets in the pan. Install new gasket on pan, holding it in place with the mounting bolts. Use the lower cooler line to pump out two quarts of ATF...

Have no idea though should be similar

Did a full transmission fluid change and filter on the 2014 4Runner at 423.4K miles (60K on the transmission). Got the fluid level set properly using the infrared temp gun on the fluid draining from the level setting plug. Needs to be between 103F and 113F; shot it at 110.8F.

Finally got the ABS working on the ‘99 with a reman ABS Pump Module. It also addressed the “Security” light that was on on continuously.

Had one tail light housing on the ‘94 split apart. So I replaced them both…