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Well I don't know what I did but something fixed itself, at least for now, lots more running to come... Timing @ -1.94

Thanks, everything has been disconnected over night, I'll head out and start from scratch and do some checks... A few days ago I did disconnect the cps, when it did start it ran smoothly so I think that means that CPS is bad, I swapped another one and went back to running crappy...

Doing some searching I think I should check the optic sensor and steeper motor to see if they are working.. I'm not a electronic pump person till now, so could someone tell me how to check and maybe replace these items, and every time it throws a relearn error code, I have cleared codes...

This IP was on a motor that failed, the owner says he thinks it was working when it was removed. The prom I'm using is a prom quadstar sent me to use for this testing on my stand. I do have the owners prom I'll swap and try to see if that makes a difference. I could swap a db2 in to prove...

I have a new build on the run stand and I'm having a lot of trouble getting the timing set. Everything I'm using was used a month ago so I know that part works, and I use GMTD on my laptop and have done it before. Now, this time I'm using the customers used IP & injectors, and pmd extension...

You need to look again at bearing clearance, keep bearing clearance at .0025-.0030 inch max.... And I have new takeout valves and springs I'll offer you cheap if you need new valves and such...

I see a lip on the outside edge of the valve, if you're not going to pay a shop for a valve job just clean and run as is...

The contact area on the seat and valve probably have a curve pounded into them from miles, normal. Laping isn't needed or done if a good valve job is done on newer machines, if using a grinder and rocks then a lapping is useful. Post some close up pics of the laping contact patches...

Looks like you're paying for glitterie shinny parts under the truck to me.. good filtering has already been done...

In case you don't know, those are early big valves heads, make sure you get the correct head gasket... Without measuring I'm saying this because of the gasket you took off...

All painted and ready for the run stand soon, this paint takes a very long time to dry, like 2 weeks, and it won't harden till the motor gets hot... So we wait...

These are 18.5:1

Oil system primed, oil passing through all rockers, time to button up...

Get the paint coming...

John's block also got a "short Fill", block filler up to the bottom of the w/p holes, cylinders were diamond honed, total seal ring pack, all bearings were ceramic coated, rotating assembly balanced to 1gr front to back spec, pistons were coated on the tops and skirts, modified P400 oil pump...

A couple pics of how I install valve seals, I use .530 seals on both and I cut the stock base to fit these more common style seals....

Here are a few pics of a build I'm working on for a member here, long block will be assembled this coming week... Most of these pics are of the heads, CNC ported, big exhaust valves, TSP valve springs, Heat stop in all runners, Heat barrier combustion chambers, 3 angle valve job... Next week...

I've got my stock radiator laying here, it's a 3row copper/brass, I've checked all the local shops to see if they could get a 4 row core, all said no...

The side is maybe 1/8 thick, I'll be welding the ones I make..

How about posting a pic, I'd like to see where it's at on the front cover, it's not factory done I know..