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I think he's looking at the blue wire. Not much of a stereo guy but isn't that a control wire from the head to the amp?

I thought thr only OEM ones available were 190. Anything else was aftermarket

that's usually 30wt

Supposed to set it hard enough that it wont move.

thanks

said a trial version was $12

looks kinda rough for $3700. Interior is all stained up.

I would check the power wire that goes from the battery to the starter and then up to the power distribution block up on the firewall. I ran a 4 gauge wire directly from the battery to the distribution block and it made a world of difference.

That would be a quick easy elimination process.

I'd look closely at the tires.

To be fair I've seen a ton reused without issue

I know on the gmt 400 you can get oversize bushings

I'd be surprised if it damaged the pistons. Normally would need the valve to have fallen in

I'd pull that head off. The only other damage would be to the piston, readily visible then. Seems like a lot of extra work and money to pull it out if not needed

I would think the pan would be pretty easy to drop on that. Find out the oiling pattern and check the bearing furthest downstream. If it good the others should be too.

RA shows them being the same size as the SBC. They also show a .003 oversize probably for this situation. If you pulled out the old ones heated the head and cooled the stud you might get them in

I would check and see if they're the same studs as a sbc. If so you could get screw in studs for it. It would be better to do the threading with the head off but probably could be done with the head on if you're really careful. I wouldn't try replacing with press in, those holes are probably...

That yellowish stuff on the axle some kind of corrosion inhibitor? If you find another of those cupholders I'd be up for one.

I found a thread on how and where to drill the oil holes in the valve cover. Did it myself

I've never seen AC lines? In front of a radiator like that