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That plunger was used on the db2 IP equipped engines. That yellow arrow splash thingy is for timing the IP

I've had pretty good luck with just a high quality putty knife, a thick one that's not flexible. I sharpen it every so often and have even used it on aluminum parts. Key is to be careful. I'd shy away from the carbide one.

Yes

Your dating us Paul. My grey hairs show it too lol

A guy could cut out the egr on the one and weld it up

I don't like the striker pin to be used for height adjustment of the door only in and out. You should be able to adjust the rear height with the hinges as well

those hinges are adjustable, I'd try that before tweaking on things

Unless the guides have already been changed at some point. The guides are cast iron and part of the head

If those are the rockers I think they are, some people really like them over the rocker button ones

no the only hole to go thru is the precup hole. i would pull the valve covers and verify the valves are moving correctly

If they even use the etching.....

IIRC there was 3-4 years they used the 2 piece with the IFS

The issue is 2 piece rear main seal vs 1 piece.

How are they activated?

one other thing I just thought of, that came out of a square body. I believe the pan is different to fit the IFS. you'd need to source (or make) a pan to fit.

down to 77 we'll see how well it does when it's hot outside

Bought this solar powered fan setup and got it installed. Hopefully it works ok. It does run. Have the same louvre on the other end but the fan isn't strong enough to pull it open. I opened the window on the screen door and it appears to have dropped the temp about 5 degrees from 87 to 82.

6.5 is just a bored out 6.2. most don't report noticing any power difference. If it's in good shape might even see a power increase.

You'll be fine without the coating as long as you don't get crazy with egt. Everything else will interchange.