Search results

I'd disassemble them to clean them. too much risk of getting stuff inside them

My OEM sealed ones have 300k on them. There's a drive line shop here that won't use greaseable. I don't know what's changed over the years but I'm seeing much better results with sealed.

Just make sure to get sealed joints if you can find them.

Do you have an issue now?

Hopefully not derailing Doug's thread but anyone know which version this is?

The 8k might be estimated lol

If no one else closer has one I could send you one.

The one that is just a plug is the oil pump drive and is the one I'd use

You're going to need the timing chain kit for the electronic 6.5. the ruluctor is part of the bottom gear

Worst case scenario is they become more of an umbrella seal and move up and down with the valve

They probably will but I'm used to alot of the newer engines having a positive snap on the guide. Again check with your machine shop

I would try not to use the oring. Maybe talk to your machine shop and see if there's a version that you don't have to machine.

That oring is what gm used on a lot of engines. Not sure on their reasoning. I believe to use the other style the guides have to be machined to be able to have them snap on and stay .

The ones in your link are LEDs

What do you mean by mini?

They are squished between the head and block.

if you decide to remove the precups you first remove the injector and then use a wooden dowel to reach in and drive it out

I wouldn't be surprised if both block and head are original to the burb. If those are big valve heads I wouldn't get carried away with power. Power usually means heat and those big valve heads were notorious for cracking between the valves

I was thinking along the lines of extending the float

Seems anymore you have to be a very good customer (volume) to get one