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but it also depends on how lean you make it. Basically, it might work with smaller mouths with lots of boost, really lean. But if you dont want to run super lean, but rather more in the 18:1 to 20:1 area of air to fuel, as to not blow the heads off or bend connecting rods, then you may need the...

Ahhh, the 4L80E can handle 450ft/lbs of flywheel torque, the latest 6.5 was rated for almost that. The stock programming for the 4L80E is not really good for that though. Guys build them up for 750hp/tq and up.

Well, removing the tone ring, and not wanting to draw too much attention do not necessarily go hand in hand. If you need to quiet it down thats a good place to start.

That is loud, seems a bit louder than the one I helped put in Warwagon's Suburban. Possibly because of the filter set up and fender vent. And thats with the tone ring in?

Perhpas using different coatings, and starting with a bored out 6.2L instead, but 635's original "Ultimate Build" was much like yours, and is now being discussed in Pavelotz's thread. Originally fully coated combustion chamber parts and the heads, intake, turbo, and exhaust headers all extrude...

Check the intake for oil, if the turbo is leaking oil and its going into the intake or turbo is sucking lots of oil out of the valve cover when operating then it probably pools behind some valves and in some cylinders after shutdown. That or some valve guides leaking.

Or just get a 2.5" to 3" silicone elbow and a 3" elbow and connect them with 3" pipe.

Thats a huge filter, might have to dent in the fender well to get it to fit under the hood. But a custom setup that you relocate the battery might work. I think you would also be fine getting a Universal Amsoil nanofiber that is shorter, but has the inverted cone top for additional surface...

Leroy even sells a bracket for the 96+ trucks to mount a Racor filter in the engine bay, rather than the stock FFM. I still use the stock FFM, but use a better higher pressure FRC-10 LP, that Leroy also sells, and I installed a pre-LP water separator/filter.

Its suppposed to have full vacuum at idle, but only passes about 15-18", so your solenoid is not letting vacuum through at idle. Its bad. The solenoid gets 12V source, the PCM regulates the grounding of it. It will switch the ground on and off to pulse width modulate it.

The Donaldson is not the same as the NanoFiber filters. The AFE is nice, good quality and fast shipping from warehouse. The ends are poly, they are more flexible/softer and likely make a better seal and will last longer than rubber. I like that it does not have the external metal framing...

Are you using an air box, or an open element under the hood. An enclosed Air box will typically take away a lot of the whine/whistle noise so that its just audible in the cab.

You can also see the value of the Baro sensor reported separately from the boost sensor on a scanner.

Wow, I wonder how long thats been a thorn in your butt

Glad its running right now. Thats one of the things to watch out for when getting a rebuilt pump, as I have seen it a handful of times in last couple years, and thats just the guys that post about the issue.

How long have you run the turbo? make sure the wheels are spinning freely, spin the intake compressor wheel and make sure it still spins a little bit before stopping, so its doesnt have a lot of resistance. The HX40WII with a 10-blade turbine was boosting by 1200rpm when we first put it...

Personally, I dont think it will make a difference, since the HX40WII already comes with the wastegate lever straight down. The stock actuator had a terrible angle compared to the just having a spring along the bottom. And the wastegate on it only moves about half an inch. So I dont think...

Yes, when wired like the stickys show, with the pot going across the output wire and ground. A lot of guys with GM turbos do it without issues, but youre still messing with the baro pressure reading. With a stock program, your fueling doesn't really need 15psi of boost, so you could also lower...

It wont defuel without setting some code, so you should check the history. You might want to just get a pot, hook it up and adjust it and monitor a scanner. Youre also going to be screwing with the barometric pressure reading, so you cannot necessarily use 10kohms. Using a resistor is also...

Have you checked the code youre setting? How did you install the resistor, in series or in parallel? Or did you install a potentiometer per a drawing?