Search results

Great. Thanks for that. The truck in your profile pic has 285/75 16s?

Wow. Well, those are off the table, then. Sounds like it'll be stock steel 16s for this truck. Too bad, 'cause I love the flat face and high offset look. But I'm not spending $200 a wheel for the similar commercial designs.

Detail pictures as requested: Some things I like about the Raptor product: Covers over a multitude of sins with no wet sanding necessary Long working time (~60min from when you add the hardener) Prep is straightforward and filling is not required (though certainly can be done) No...

Good to know. I was looking around at 16.5 tires in something like 255/85 or similar. Will "standard" 16.5s not fit the HMMWV rims? I don't think 35s will fit under my wells without rub. Ha! Good point. I'll take some closer shots to show texture, coverage, etc. and will post along with some...

This Suburban was my family vehicle and then my farm truck and then it sat after the IP failed 2 years ago. When I decided to get it running again, I vowed it wouldn't become a hobby vehicle. But I caved. Now it's slated to be the adventure truck to get me and my kids up into the mountains more...

Thanks for the switch idea. That connected some dots for me. I really hadn't thought of the benefit of direct control over locking the front hubs. Now I understand the appeal of the manual option TSP recommended. Your idea makes sense, too.

My hubs don't lock anymore and I suspect the actuator. But a couple of questions before I buy another. What voltage should I see at the plug when I shift to 4H or 4L? I'm getting 12.x, which seems about right What resistance should I see on the actuator? If I understand the system, its just a...

After a new IP, new relocated PMD, new fuel tank, a handful of odds and ends, and a lot of tinkering, this one is running again. Thanks to all of you who offered advice.

Thanks guys. I'll be working on this tomorrow. Maybe I can get far enough along to finally hear the engine run...

Thanks! Didn't realize I could do that.

@WarWagon - paint flake and corrosion; possibly some grit. No obvious water or biologicals. Overall, it's in surprisingly good shape for being 26 years old.

I'll see what I can get in the next day or two. It looked something like the silty clay + mica subsoil that we have here. There is still quite a bit in the tank; I can here it sliding around when I slosh the last bit of fuel that I haven't poured off. You may be right about the sludge being...

Thanks for that info. I did note a lot of silver specs in the sludge so I'll take a closer look at the lining when I get the assembly out. I'm definitely going to replace the sender; it was dodgy, especially after filling the tank.

But I thought diesel wasn't flammable...:) It came down with a good bit of coaxing. Must not have been dropped before. The original foam pads were holding the tank in place even with ~60lbs of fuel in it. That's some impressive adhesion.

Thanks Will. I'll get a bar out this evening and see if I can loosen it up.

I disconnected those first. It's a mystery to me. Maybe just wedged between the frame members, I don't know.

In the process of replacing an IP on a 94 K2500 Suburban, I found significant sludge in the fuel manager. I'm trying to drop the tank to check it out. Disconnected everything and removed the straps and shield but the tank won't drop. Must be one of those anti-gravity models. I've looked around...

Thanks for the warning, @Jaryd

I found one vendor, SS Diesel, which explicitly states their supplier remans to the 5521S standards. I can't with any of the others, even AC Delco and the larger parts mfgs don't clarify.

I don't think new is going to work in my budget for this repair. I'm seeing nothing below $1700. Looking at remans from Quadstar (don't know who he uses to rebuild) or AC Delco or Dipaco. There are others that seem legit, too. If you've got suggestions, I'm all ears. There's also a Stanadyne...