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I redid the retainers and instead popped the mandrel out and used a cold punch to knock out and remove the mandrel head from the centre. The punch was just small enough to fit in the head and pin. Now there is no material that could fall out from the centre. Here’s a pic of the final product:

Got the left head and valve train installed today.

Today I checked the block and heads with a machinists straight edge, cleaned the block and head surfaces, and cleaned the injector thrust washer mating surfaces. I also installed the right head and injectors. Once the surfaces were confirmed to be within spec, I swabbed the block threads with...

Installing the one piece rear main seal is difficult without tool J-39084, because the back of the crank sticks out past where the installed seal is supposed to go. Here's what I rigged up if anyone else is looking for ideas. No idea how anyone else does it, this is just what I impatiently...

Retoactive update.. last month when I got my block back and started plastigauging, everything I checked was within spec. Main bearings were all 0.0025" on the green, so I lubed up the main mearings and installed the crankshaft but noticed binding on cap #3. I followed the GM manual with...

Ok, thanks Will. I have more M12 c/w 16mm socket nuts on the way. I look forward to your update! By the way, what M12 washers did you have before? My kit from quadstar came with 19.1 mm OD washers, and 301-8400 has a 20.7 mm collar diameter.

I picked up Nord-Lock washers from my local industrial supplier. They are for designed to maintain clamping under severe vibration. A 16mm or 5/8" ratcheting flare nut wrench would be used to secure the ARP nut as the stover lock nut is tightened. The Nord-Lock washer would go between the 16mm...

I special ordered fasteners with the larger head size. In the meantime I'm using the ARP nuts I have to assemble the block and check clearances. I'll swap em out once my final nuts and tooling arrive.

Thanks for the info Will. Cool concept!

Does drilling the hole make the studs single use only, since the holes may not line up if the studs get used on another rebuild? Also, why do the washers need to change, does it matter if the flange nut has a different collar diameter than the washer?

I went with 26ft-lbs. I think your gm equivalent load cell test for M10 studs on regular caps was 23.5 so I just bumped it up 10%. That was the highest I felt comfortable doing vs risk of cracking the block. DSG recommended 48 Ft-lbs, but I'm sure that what's caused the 2" crack along the...

Hey @Will L., according to ARP's catalogue, the collar diameter and head height vary with socket sizes. Could changing either of those dimensions result in a different clamping force vs torque? Would you need to do another load cell test if the total thread contact area or washer/collar contact...

The picture I sent previously was from a bad angle - the stover lock nuts were only on finger tight, not fully threaded. Got the studs torqued down now and I just checked to see if there are enough threads for stover lock nuts. It's really close. But my M10 studs are at an angle in a custom...

Thanks Will, I ordered an imperial set (they didn’t have metric on their website. Slow though, been two weeks since purchase and they still haven’t shipped. In the meantime I’m assembling and will add the stover lock nuts before the pan goes on

Drove and met the seller. He had two new pumps, one had the pmd pulled, otherwise both looked identical. Turns out he was a former mechanic from a GM dealership in the territories. He said they were new old stock from the dealer that he got once the time warranty periods expired for the 6.5’s...

http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Service Bulletin/561.pdf

How about this listing? $300 USD. 5521 model, tag looks authentic, I think it just needs ULSD internals to be latest spec.

Sorry I should have clarified, ARP lube would need to be used on the first nut, regardless if it is ARP or not. Is there a way to confirm thread fitments?

I just checked, the arp nuts have a very tiny head. You’d have to cut a low profile box end in half and clamp the halves over the ARP nut to hold it. Or grind a cheap regular box end to a lower profile and cut it into two halves. You'd probably have to grind a flat spot on the outside of the...

You can slide a box end from 12 point over and off the 6 point if six of the points line up, assuming the outside of both nuts use the same size wrench