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As far as the alternator, we just prefer them, single wire and a sense line, it's wiring is original to the H1 so it makes it simple. Swap to the smaller 8 rib pulley is all. We fab the brackets for both the Alt and the A/C pump, so alignment is not a problem. I'm not a fan of the exhaust...

BTW, the rubber on the baffles is Garage door weather stripping, readily available at the local home improvement store and stands up well to the weather. The small angle is where it is attached. :-)

And a few more

I've been busy and closing in on the finish of another swap, this one is pretty tame at around 450 rwhp. Thought I'd post up some pictures so you could have a look.

Cummins swaps and the Tach. When I did the sand toy, the wiring in the vehicle had been pretty well boogered up by the previous owners. When I started looking at the Tach installation I Googled around and found everyone opting for manual trans and using the ISSPRO gages, or the induction unit...

Not everything in the setups are my choice, I work with the owners and set them up per what they want. You can explain the hazards all day long, but when the have "cool factor" on their minds there is no swaying them. You may be astounded by the thinking, but what comes into play is "I want to...

The single fan and shroud setup actually works very well. It is set up with a thermal switch and an override in the cabin. We run them with a 195 F thermostat and the thermal switch cuts out at between 165/170. I know a lot of people seem to have issues and heat problems with their own electric...

I called my driveshaft guy after reading the above and my understanding for a 2 piece drive shaft is that all 3 angles should add up to zero, the same as with a one piece shaft. He said that a lot of times the first shaft will be set on the same line as the transmission and the second shaft...

Setting up the motor mount position for the Cummins we use the original crankshaft location and height so as not to change the driveshaft angles. We used the H1 compliance mounts as well. The setback for the motor location is based on the transmission mount location. Since we mostly use the...

Shot with the gate closed

Yup, that's me riding shotgun

We looked at what was out there, couple of nice ones were very pricey and then there were the sheet metal ones for under $20 on E-Pay. We decided to just make our own and after it had been to a few shows were saw a nice copy of it for sale through one of the Diesels houses, just minus the...

Another angle of the setup

Yes, this is the safety shut-off. It's a Guillotine style shut off that we designed and built, the pin is connected to a cable that runs into the cabin and has a handle right in front of the shifters for immediate use in the event of a runaway. We did this after the first almost disaster road...

Thanks Nate, we scratch our heads a lot and toss out futile attempts before anyone can see them. Ha! The H1C with the 60 wheel is capable up to a little over 50 lb/min and should be good for 450 to 500 on this motor setup. Nothing outrageous in this one, fellow wants good street manners and...

Mods to the H1C included cutting/welding and porting housing. The stock unit would have fit, this just made it a more compact package and from previous testing doesn't seem to change it's performance.

Wilwood big brake install. This in my opinion should be in every H1 as the smaller stock brakes are not really up to the task of these heavy trucks.

3/4 inch block added to move Radiator forward for additional clearance. The trans cooler was sectioned off and tabs modified for mounting. Shrouds modified for the 2-1/2 body lift.

Brackets fabbed up to pull the A/C pump and Alt closer to block and above the frame rail. This setup uses an 81 inch belt.

These are the mods made to the transmission dust cover so that it fits correctly behind the adapter plate.