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I have been able to get free wiring diagrams from this site...... http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-and-wiring-diagrams-login/

Very nice.... it did not make me an engineer......... but at least I now completely understand the basic difference between HP and Torque......... and what gives an engine each.

The biggest reason to keep the PMD mounted tight is that it needs to transfer heat to keep from frying itself (it gets very hot if left hanging in free air) so you want it mounted tightly to a good heat sink.

But I agree with your preference........

I think the steering column would prove to be problematic.....

That was my swap............. I however removed the 4X4, which involved some welding up a new front end support to replace the axle. With my build I was going for MPG so the 4X4 was dead weight and it did not fit the older style 6.2 oil pan that I had. To do the swap the easiest way I found to...

I did a swap in a 96 tahoe for the following reasons #1 Wanted to do it for the fun project that it would be and learning experience. #2 Get better gas milage #3 I like the 6.2 6.5 diesels. With fuel mileage gains I calculate that I save at least $8 every 200 miles even though fuel is more...

RPM for the tach comes from the alternator. Maybe plug the optical sensor back in.... having that unplugged will also make it harder to start.

I am with Will... I would really like to see a video of this smoke coming out the intake. Air getting in the fuel pump can definitely make them a bugger to start. I hope your smoke out the intake is not this extreme but it reminds me of a time I was working on a friends Toyota......... It was...

If you are getting fuel out at the injectors, I would look real hard at the glow plugs. These trucks wont start without them. Also X2 on the cranking speed. If the battery got run down just a bit then there is a good chance that it will not fire.

Another thing that can cause SES at 70MPH is a vacuum pump, vacuum line, or waste gate solenoid problem. My truck did this when the vacuum pump went out.... at 70MPH there was not enough vacuum to hold the waste gate, so the under boosted condition would set the code.

I like how you can pull an engine and still say "This shouldn't be a big project".............. You have an amazing portfolio of projects!

When I built the engine for my tahoe I did not have an IP, but I was able to get a 24 Volt from a guy for $100 and got it re-built. I just told the shop that it was a 24V and asked them to change it to a 12V. They talked like that was no big deal.

Is that 13MPG town/city driving? If so that sounds about like mine, I get about 14 in town if I go easy on it and 13 if I listen to the turbo.........don't get 19-20 unless I am out on the interstate. Mine is a 94 K2500 with a steel flatbed on it so it weighs a bit more than stock.

I think I found the culprit on this....... I went out and tried it (had not done anything to it) and it fired right up. So I walked around and started wiggling wires at the injection pump. As soon as I touched the PMD extension harness at the IP end the truck died. I repeated this a couple times...

Just to be clear on this story.... should have said I could not get it to re-start as it did die on me that time as well.

Am not finding out much what Code 17 means other than the basic High Resolution Circuit Fault description.............

Code 17 Cleared it and it did not come back

Is the needle on your gauge out of place? Sounds like maybe you are getting the proper range of motion it is just twisted up to read too high on the scale. I know on my 96 you can pop the needle right off (I don't remember it being keyed on its shaft) so I would think you could just line it up...

My pickup stalled out today. Would not re-start....jumpered the fuel pump and confirmed good fuel pressure to the IP, no air bubbles in the return line, put a known good PMD on it........Nada.... A friend got a roll back we loaded it in the rain at 40 something degrees......... Its been sitting...