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And mounts fabricated and welded.

Engine in bay with turbo on in much better positioning.

12v vs 24v manifold.

That's excellent to know. I'm not sure yet how close the full exhaust will be. I'm putting a pacbrake in there too. I'll see today with a proper angle on the manifold.

You can buy a lift kit for 600-700usd from several places. Mine cost $4.95. I had to buy a 5/8 drill bit from home depot. UHMW is the plastic. I had 3" bar of it left over from some lathe project. I put a flat side on it in my table saw and bucked the bar up in my chop saw at 1.5" each. Drilled...

My cummins 12v exhaust manifold has an angle on the turbo side. Makes the turbo hit the cab. I picked up a dorman 24v manifold with a straight down exit to try tomorrow. I'll post some pics then.

Picked up the cab today off the frame and its all started to come together. My adapter plate was only tagged to the block with 2 bolts and was peeling away at the top. Made it look like I was out of room when it was getting close to right. My 97 has a factory 1/2 inch body lift (dont laugh. Its...

There's a hole in the middle of each one... I know. What on earth?

And just for general knowledge- six of these came in my Cummins gasket set. What the blazes are they? I've scoured the net and found nothing.. I'm guessing I dont need them but I'm still curious.

Perfect. Just the kind of "guide" I was after!

I'm pouring through your pics on the last 8 pages. It looks like you keep to the 6.5 crank angle (front to back of the vehicle) but placed the nose of the engine a little higher than the stock 6.5 sits. How much clearance do you have between the diff yoke and block at the timing cover? Sandy

I'm guessing there is a little wiggle room for variation in where I park the block. Share some pics of the close up of this junction?

Here's the block/yoke interference.

I did really careful measures and templates when the 6.5 was in to allow me to replicate the same crank centerline with the Cummins in place. The engine dropped in not too bad after getting it tilted up nice and high. A little jiggling of the transmission and we got the adapter plate bolted to...

I even thought about putting the water to air radiator on it's own set of louvers from the hood over a wheel well.

I could have had the pair from Russia for 1k us but the insurance company insisted on ordering from AMG through a half dozen middlemen. $2300 all done for one side. I paid the 200 dollar deductable. I'm sold on water to air as well.

Nice. I was going to sling it in the middle next. Might end up hanging it off the 2 post hoist and putting the truck under. Just need to really be careful of my winsheilds. The heated ones are about 2k per side when done on an insurance claim. Cheaper myself if theres no claim involved but still..

My engine crane is about 5"short at full extension of making the block meet the trans...hehe. I'm grabbing a engine tilter and taking the weekend off. I know I'll have to lift the body up but just need to prove it myself. A few details- -4l80e bellhousing bolt holes need enlarging for bigger...

Engine is back together. Fresh gaskets. Adapter plate tested. Gets trial fitted in the next few days.

A local torque converter rebuild shop put mine together for my H1 Cummins swap. I haven't run it yet but he said the 4l80e converters are not a really low stall unit. He put in a good clutch and billet piston. Tightened up some of the clearance inside and hand recurved the tips of the turbine...