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Let us hope so.

Pretty much good. The pressure bleeds off through the Injection pump. The pressure you are seeing is just the lift pump pressure. This assures the IP of a good supply of fuel. Missy

Yup Large club applied liberally :WTF:

10-4 on the heat sink paste. Already have a large tube of it for puters and other stuff :thumbsup: The cable is a good one as well. Heat kills these things. Sadly GM and Stanadyne knew the arrangement they had was not working, but just said screw it. By the time GM had it scoped out they...

Close now Primed the entire oil system until the cooler was full and there was oil to the turbo. Stuffed the regular oil pump drive in and buttoned that up. All the rear main wire harness plugs are in and tidy. Grounds done as are the other cables. Just need to get radiator in and batteries...

I would agree Leroy, but with a unit that requires little more than bolting it in, plus being plenty big, ahhhh what the heck, can't hurt.

3500 If you don't know, your life is far better not knowing.:D:hihi: My acquaintance with PMD coolers goes back so far I can't remember not having it in my vocabulary :(

A secret on the two top bolts. Use bolts the do not have the stud top on them, and this allows an easy install. All my new metric bolts had stud tops, so the band saw took care of those :hihi: With the stud top gone the bolts will slip right in easily with the fingers. Next get a 15 MM...

I have a known good D-Tech PMD that had/has been on the rig. I already own an extension cable and the current PMD is mounted on one of those top hat type mounts. I will get another new PMD and keep the top hat mount as a pinch hitter to carry in the ditty box. The new cooler was only $25 to...

Found this BAD BOY on ebay. It is a heat sink for some heavy power transistors, and was designed to dissipate the heat from 6 large transistors. its about 10 inches long and a skosh over 4 inches wide, with 2 inch high fins it will just slip in and around the corner of the nostrils. This...

Best way is care and coaxing. :hihi:

Gep/gepp same same

I have been looking for a 2 door hoe forever, and can't find a diesel that's not thrashed

Lovely looking engine Just some thoughts I myself prefer to leave the starter, manifolds and any extras off the engine until it's in the chassis. I makes it easier to wiggle things and get the sucker in. Getting the manifolds on is a breeze using the inner fender access port behind the flap.

The underneath area is damned cluttered. The best way is from the top/front with the extra stuff out of the way. IF the little sucker will come right out, you can do it easily from several angles, but to date I have never had a used one that's been in there a long time come out without a fight.

As mentioned "These sensors break EASY" There is no tried and true/guaranteed method to get these out without breaking them, but care and some wiggling will usually work. I have had to on occasion, resort to a coarse screw threaded tool on a small slide hammer to get them out. As far as...

You can buy GEP HEADS directly from GEP as well. Penninsular sells the good stuff. There are two types of heads, the van an hummer type with the 60 degree bolt angle on the intake ports, and the pickup heads with the 90 degree bolt angle. The NA and Turbo heads use different precups. The...

Great info I do believe that once you have done one of these and thrashed about a bit that it's far easier the next time. The last time I did one was a looooooong time ago, and was with a borrowed Tech1 tool For a total newbie, this can be a daunting task. Your purchase of the GMTDSCAN was a...

Great :thumbsup::hello: Now, just for the records, what did you do?? This will allow anyone else who comes along to be able to duplicate your remedy. What did your timing wind up at ??? A TDCO of -1.5 is a great spot. The engine will rattle a bit harder when its really cold, but it's still...

Thanks :hello: