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some positive news- the key I was using was a copy, I'd lost the original. But discovered the wrong blank was used. Just had another copy made with the correct blank and the key goes in! But everything is still locked up. I did get a new tumbler and key & lock cylinder set but was really...

No luck getting anything to cooperate. I'm a bit confused as I posted the same question over on the 'Page and someone replied that the lock position is the only position where you're able to get the key out. I think I remember this being the case. I had to push down on the lock release lever...

Thanks for the replies So you're saying try to turn just the ignition lock tab to the unlock position while trying to break the wheel free? On most old GM vehicles I've owned the key/ ignition gets to worn that you can pull the key out with it running. Must be how this got stuck in the lock...

I feel extra stupid not being able to accomplish the most simple of tasks, but in an effort to avoid insanity by repeated effort with no result, I'm asking for help here. Truck is a 1993 K3500 Cheyenne 1 ton dump. Been picking away at it for the past 3 years, finally almost ready to get the...

this it? https://www.thestopshop.com/collections/brake-line-fittings-armor-unions-tees-etc/products/gg31616ss

I think the LP fittings are the stupid saginaw type that also have an o-ring, just like the power steering lines that connect to the steering gear. If one wants to just use fuel hose you can use this fitting coming out of the LP and then just run fuel hose to the FFM...

The only difference I'm aware of would be the years as the 92-95 GM NV4500 had a unique bellhousing to trans bolt pattern whereas 96+ used the same bolt pattern as the dodge NV4500. The Tremec 4050 and the new NV5000 are still in production units that also use only the Dodge trans to bellhousing...

You can use a known good timing chain set to align the crank and cam and IP, and then use that to compare the gears. The gears are definitely better so don't give up on them just yet. Best way to install gears though is to have the head off so you can degree the cam and make sure the #1 piston...

Where is the DB2 from? Unless from a reputable builder it's suspect. Injectors tested for proper spray and pop pressure before installed? Where is the gear drive from? Been documented that a recent batch of timing gears from Leroy had timing marks off that led to poor running as you're...

I would not recommend using Sch. 40 pvc for intake plumbing. At least when I tried to use it it got too hot and deformed and uncoupled from everything. Too much underhood air. Only time I ever had to pull over from the ECT being too high and it was because the turbo was pulling in unfiltered...

I cut the silicone elbows shorter on the ends that connect to the air filter and the end that connects to the turbo to give me just enough room to fit against the side post battery. Granted where the clamps join the two elbows together was touching the positive terminal so I had wrapped some...

@SnowDrift The plan was for the CDR to be replaced with a provent. There's a fitting one can buy here that I was going to adapt to the intake elbow pre turbo. But now with the engine back in Chris' shop as you know I'll be using the 6.2 oil fill with vent/ baffle to vent the crankcase and both...

With the K47 air box and a mechanical wastegate on the HX35/40 I'm able to get both to fit using the stock exhaust manifold

Looking great as always Nate! Are those NAPA/ Mevotech TTX tie rods? I bought some brand new and the alignment for the cotter pin and castle nut was way off. Wondering if you have the same issue https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/napa-ttx-castle-nuts-appear-too-short.51529/#post-669385

It could probably be adapted by using a reducer silicone coupler. Not sure what the size is on the S&B elbow but maybe a hump hose coupler could still fit the HX40 axis Another idea would be to fab a different outlet if the plastic plate with molded elbow can be unscrewed. Make a new piece out...

It looks like that compressor has the high pressure cutout switch. As far as I know the original '93 didn't come with the high pressure switch. At least it's not there on mine and I'm certain it's stock. Would you be willing to show some photos of how the newer compressor switch was retrofitted...

Not sure if this will fit exactly in the egged out elbow, but you could buy another elbow and install. Then get a 1/2" NPT to barbed fitting to connect to the CDR https://www.siliconeintakes.com/holset-turbocharger/-p-500.html

I'd also replace the condenser, unless you know it was replaced recently. I'm sending one for my '93 over to @Twisted Steel Performance for coating here shortly. What specifically is in the retrofit kit? The compressor on my '93 is likely original and no good, so I'll be upgrading that too...

I know nothing about the auto side of things...but I do know the 5.9 is notorious for eating automatic transmissions. I have a buddy with a first gen 12v and he's put 3 transmissions in it in the 15 years he's owned it...I'm going to help him swap a NV4500 into it sometime in the next year or...

I think the speedo is read off a sensor in the transmission rear tailhousing. That sensor or wiring to it could be the issue with the speedo. I have no idea if the ABS gets any readings from the speedo sensor but doubt it's related. Pull ABS codes as suggested first