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Dinner is not until 6:00 pm at my brother’s place in Corona Del Mar. I can’t really stuff myself with food anymore.

Found some additional damage. In the process of breaking the tie rod, it also broke the sway bar. Should I buy new or harvest one from a boneyard?

Success, both LCAs are off. I can now start putting this back together.

I call this the “Hillary Step” of Lower Control Arm removal. Driver’s side rear bolt is impeded by the CV axle flange on the front differential. Passenger side is not. Have to undo, lower and pry the diff over to the passenger side to clear that rear bolt. It is like a limbo dance.

I’ve recently ordered Raybestos slotted front brake rotors from PartsGeek.com. Their price was about half what RockAuto.com was asking and their shipping cost was far less. Order came timely. No issues. Ready to order more.

Go to PartsGeek.com as they are way cheaper on rotors. The Raybestos Advanced Technology Rotors are the same as the top end AC Delco. Screen captures of slotted and regular Raybestos for GMT-400 front: RockAuto will gouge you for shipping cost on rotors...

It was due to fatigue. I overdid the ream in the knuckle for the GMT-800 brake conversion and ended up with looseness there which caused wheel wobble and vibration at highway speed and obviously metal fatigue in the tie rod. Second half of this video shows the play in the tie rod that I was...

Made some progress today. Just need to remove the LCAs. I have a pair of forged LCAs already prepped with Energy Suspension bushings and Moog ball joints. Install those and then ream the replacement knuckles and I’m putting it back together.

I guess there’s always a first.

I said the same. I was lucky.

Well I did. I backed up there to clear the lane in the parking lot. It worked. Suddenly this job jumped to the front of the line in front of upper and lower control arms on my wife’s 2014 4Runner. Can’t do any work in the yard as it’s too muddy from all the rain.

So I was helping my brother clear a landscaping drain at his home in Corona Del Mar. Headed to Home Depot in Costa Mesa to rent a power snake and I broke a tie rod on my ‘99 Suburban. It was on the right front where I was having issues with the tie rope loose in knuckle from over reaming it...

Can’t believe I failed to transfer the RFID chip in the first place. But it was snuggly in its old receptacle and I was working with tired eyes. I just assumed it was a fixed part of the old case. Now I’m feeling pretty stupid over this.

I cut a strip from an ad card in the mail. Folded it in a size and thickness that would mop up the space and make it a snug fit. Essentiallly, I fabricated a shim to firmly hold it in place. I then put it back together and my tests had it working just fine. So it’s good now. I just don’t see...

Top = New key fob case. Bottom = old broken key fob case. New will crank the engine, but no start. Other set of keys with old key fob will crank and start the vehicle. At the top right of old broken fob there is a rectangular piece, is that for sending a security signal to start the vehicle? I...

Bonus points for admitting the ecoboost is crap.

Just replaced the battery in September, but it was on the alternator that failed. Battery never failed to start the car.

Wife has the car at our Montana home; I am at our Fullerton, CA home. I can try to coach her through using rhe multi meter, but I know she’ll just take it to our local mechanic.

Alternator went out on the 2014 4Runner, stranding my wife in Mackay, Idaho (population ~500). Original alternator went 318.5K miles. I replaced with new Toyota Denso alternator and that lasted to 395.7K miles, or about 78K miles. Replacement alternator (do not know if it was new or reman, but...