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Took a little break and installed the new sway bar on the ‘99 K2500 Suburban. Now I just need to finish reaming the ball joint holes on the knuckles and it will go back together quickly.

I thinks it’s 2” per ft gets you 10 degree, while 1.5” per ft gets you 7 degree.

I’m doing them by hand with a right angle drill. Getting the depth right is the tedious part. I’ve got the tie rod holes reamed. Will be working on the depth for the ball joint holes.

The intro paragraph for WalMart listing says 1.5” per ft 10 degree, then down below in the description it says: Item details with high thermal hardness, high wear resistance, high hardenability and sufficient plasticity and toughness. and can withstand large impact force and high load...

Ford couldn’t make it work when starting with a blank slate:

Here’s the Walmart listing for the 7 degree ream for the tie rods: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree-Reamer-Tie-Bar-1-1-2-Inches-Per-Foot/16979213960 IRRC Speedway has it at a price of $121.99. This looks exactly the same. So now we’ve got a source for reams at a...

Well the new Mevotech sway bar arrived and I immediately noticed its heavy weight. Went to compare to the broken sway bar and the Mevotech is clearly a solid bar, while the OEM was a hollow bar.

I found the 10 degree reamer at Walmart for $26.52, which is 1/4 the $105.99 price that Speedway motors wants for it. They look the same and both are made in China. https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Degree-Ball-Joint-Tapered-Reamer-Reamer-for-1-1-2-Inch-Foot-Taper-Fitting-Joints-Tie-Rod/13421055236

FWIW I installed the Moog ball joints on the ‘99 and they had close to 70K miles on them. They moved freely in the socket, but there was no play from wear. I reworked a pair of forged LCAs which got the Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings and new Moog ball joints. While I was in there, I...

While on the subject of ball joints…. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1351565572866918/?fs=e&mibextid=wwXIfr&fs=e

Moog Problem Solver

Oil change on the 2014 at 399K miles. Had to do it 1K early as my wife is returning to Montana tomorrow. She will be back down in SoCal on 12/14.

This is where it becomes counter intuitive. I need to ream the lower ball joint hole a bit deeper to clear the CV axle above. Probably the thickness of a thick washer. Go too deep and I need washers under the castle nut so the cotter pin goes through the nut.

I had over reamed the depth on the passenger side knuckle and it ended up “egged out” due to the looseness. I’ve already done the tie rod ream on the passenger side knuckle. Set the depth with with the castle nut snugged down to where the cotter pin just fits through.

Are those Mevotech ball joints? I was doing the same job (upper ball joints) yesterday: Today I ream the knuckles to fit tie rods and ball joint and it goes back together. Already reamed the passenger side knuckle for tie rod. This time set the depth so I could just get the cotter pin...

You have the OEM original riveted on upper ball joint.

I flipped the bolts the other direction, so the nut is facing the CV axle flange.

Reworked LCAs installed. So officially going back together and all the heavy work is done. Need to ream the knuckles for tie rods and ball joints.

I ordered a new Mevotech Sway Bar assembly from PartsGeek.com

By the presence of rust on that break edge, it must have been cracked from fatigue for awhile: