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Just for shitz and grinns, you don't happen to still have that noise filter connected to the optic sensor in the harness do you? it will be a short harness with a small black box inline, one end connects direct to the optic sensor and the other end to the truck harness. if so, remove it and...

One of the pins on the obd connector is for the light. you can probe a test light there to ground and count flashes that way too! a small ultrasonic cleaner is available on the jungle site for around $40. I use mine a lot. went with the one that has mechanical dials over the digital ones...

Here is a method to read codes by shorting the two pins. although this guide says to short pins A and B, iirc on my 95 I used A and M. https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/6.5-diesel-obd-dtc.html Code 31 is for the EGR.

Honestly I have never heard of cleaning or replacing the optic sensor with the IP still in the engine, not sure if that is possible without having to re-time the IP. if it was or is visibly dirty, how it the condition of the fuel? these IP's cannot run off from colored fuel like red farm use...

Welcome @bigred95

I would also check timing, there is a simple procedure to "check" and see if it might need adjustment. @Will and @ak diesel driver can explain it to make better sense than I can, but it's basically amounts to this.... get the engine fully warm first. then look with a flashlight on the...

Nice work! the only thing I would be worried about for the future is the flex joints. when the day comes they start leaking and you need to replace. iirc they make them with v band flanges so that they could easily be replaced, wonder if you have clearance for that though. Though on my 95...

just an idea too, is a bolt on brace for the turbo or manifold at the turbo flange to the head or block to help support the weight of the turbo. the constant shake and heat cycles could put too much on the exhaust port flange causing it to bend over time creating a leak point.

On your flange, that arched section connecting to the next port almost looks as if it might make things harder to work around the GP's. wonder if once the headers are done, you could cut each section out so each port is separated? the flange is good n flat in those area so you could also...

@Big T measure the diameter on the groves of the pulley, those two looked the same in your photo. the fans should be the same between the CS-130 and the 144 so you could swap them too. and iirc there should have been a spacer on the cs-130 that you can use for it as well.

Mine has been doing the same thing. maybe they opened up for larger file sizes here in the forums recently?

to check timing, an easy way is to look on the passenger side of the IP for a long lever that runs from the throttle shaft down to the bottom of the IP to a plunger which it pushes on at the throttle is pressed. you will need a flash light to see the plunger at the bottom of the IP on that...

follow that yellow wire back into the harness and see where it goes. you should find a thermostatic switch similar to a coolant temp sender threaded into a water jacket. there will be two wires connected to it, one is that yellow wire, the other should be a 12v+ coming from the ignition...

be sure you get the copper washers out of the head if they are not stuck to the injectors when removing. that double spade contact must have broken off from something in that area. follow the wires back and see where each one goes. it could have been a ground for something or something...

Nice! I noticed you have the CDR bung opening for the valve cover on the drivers side, are you running it on that side, running dual CDR's, or making provisions for a centrifuge setup?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5060-Detroit-Diesel-Injector/dp/B002Y0B7AQ 30mm 12 point socket. this one has the provisions inside to keep from breaking off the return line bibs.

If I did that I wouldn't be able to keep my pooch off from it LOL

taking the wider tires for the dually will fit, but spacers might be needed for the rears. the main thing is you don't want the side walls to be able to touch when the truck is loaded. just simply mounted with the truck's weight is not enough to judge if they will be ok or not. also if one...

I would say start at the stock spec for factory turbo, 2150. then go from there. have your old ones tested and see where they are at.

I swapped them out on the 6.2 block I have on the stand without any issues. they fit just fine. remember it's only a 1/4" height difference. not much.