Search results

Everything is new and intact.

Both the striker and latch are recently new.

The 10% remaining rattles is from the door on the latch pin. After redoing the hinge pins and bushings a couple years back, the door rattle is much improved, but there is still slight play. I might have to go the route of overzsized pins and bushings from Cunningham Machine.

Replaced the clip that holds the lock actuator rod to the latch assembly. Also drilled the rivets holding the lock actuator to the inner door panel and replaced with bolts, lock washers and nylock nuts. It was flopping around quite a bit on just the rivets. Got it back together and the lock...

Actuator does not move or even respond. Been like this for awhile. Good news is I’m down to little projects like this.

Rear barn door lock actuator no longer works, so I have a new one on order. Question is how to remove the existing? Actuator is bolted to a bracket using the 4 small bolts holding the actuator together. The bracket is rivet to the door. Should I try to remove the bolts holding it to the bracket...

You’re right, get a new dash. My recent off-road camping effort have the existing dash breaking apart. I priced the aluminum one and it’s $2,000. Waiting for the pricing on LMC’a replica that they reportedly have started production on. If it’s priced like their ‘94 and earlier replica dash for...

What is the Kryptonite part number for the tie rod ends that fit GMT800 Spindle and GMT400 center link?

Sounds like I could use one. Are they hard to swap?

That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Although tests show no play in the UCA bushings, I’m wondering if new energy suspension polyurethane bushings would help here? Did I mention this is the tightes the front end has ever been?

I’ve replaced that plug before. Also the resistor.

I just ordered a GM Genuine blower resistor off Amazon. Pretty sure it’s the resistor based on the middle speeds going off and on prior to the sudden no work at all this am.

Blower motor no longer blows at all. It was cutting in and out at the speeds less than Hi. Now I get nothing.

As the title says the variable speed settings for the wipers is only producing low and high with no differentiation in speed between the two. Also, sometimes the wiper just fails to shut off for a long time. What part should I be looking to replace?

AC stopped working. Checked fuses on side of dash and they are good. The dash HVAC switch panel is new and has been working. The variable speed control was not ahowing much change between Low and Hi, but Hi was working full on. Could this be the resistor going out?

After a weekend of off-roading and camping, I took the Suburban in for a revisit on alignment because it was steering to the left. The alignment tech confirmed some issues that I was seeing: 1) Outer tied rod on passenger side was loose (again) in the knuckle. Obviously I over did it with the...

Gott make hay while the sun shines….errr pour concrete while the temps are above freezing.

Or my ABS which works infrequently (less than 10% of the time), or my transfer case which now has 3 of 4 settings working, only missing 4 Low, or my formerly variable speed wipers which now only has two speeds and decides to shut off only when it feels like it, not when I shut it off.

Well you can always make fun of my early locking left rear wheel, or my dash that’s shaking apart from front end wheel vibration at 70+ mph, or the rattles inside my driver’s door, or my Pioneer head unit which only partially works in many respects.

I believe the remaining pulse may be from the slight feathered wear in the tires from prior to road force balancing. I will try rotating the tires.