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Thank you. I have some recreational detour (river clean up and fishing) today and will get back at the truck electrical tomorrow.

15.2 mpg while towing is very good.

Here is my pic: That metal box is all that I’ve got there. The plug has 3 rows of pins in it, while the shop manual shows a plug with two rows.

Got the $50 driver’s seat from salvage cleaned up. Had my wife pick up a bottle of Folex spot carpet/upholstery cleaner from HD. She went to town on the seat and just raved about how well the Folex stuff worked. I followed that up with the upholstery attachment on my Rug Doctor carpet machine...

No alarm installed or removed during my ownership and the rear actuator worked until recently. Already probed the leads and contact buttons, no voltage. Took Emory cloth to the contact buttons at the door. Tested it with door closed (thus connecting the contact buttons) and nothing. Manual...

I will check tomorrow. Just learning how to use these manuals.

Right side of steering column under dash, I see nothing on left side of depicted bracket: Right side of that bracket, I see two plugs, neither of which look like the one in the picture. The first pic is the plug to a metal box attached to the bracket. Second is the plug to a plastic box...

It shows it, but does not show where:

I am trying to locate the remote control door lock receiver on my 1999 K2500. I need to due a voltage test on the “F” pin: Some internet materials suggest the receiver is located under the dash on the right hand side of the steering column. I pulled two separate plugs there and they are not...

Well the bronze bushings have consistently failed.

Bushings are a press fit into the hinge. This is similar to the lower ball joints that press fit into the forged lower control arms. They are not designed to spin in the hinge.

You contradicted yourself. The stainless will not wear through, thus preventing the softer steel hole from getting messed up. There, I fixed it for you.

How about pics of the product: Stainless bushings instead of bronze. I’m willing to give it a try.

Small Tsunami waves hit the California coast. Seemed like it took them 12+ hours to arrive.

Well the weight of the door is resting on the bottom hinge and bushings. So when I’m lifting the door, I am unloading the weight off the bottom. It’s not to say the top bushings aren’t loose. I will address both top and bottom with the oversize kit. I will keep the Cunningham Machine bushings...

Here is what I bought: https://endurapin.com/products/full-size-truck-c-k-series-silverado-sienna-k5-blazer-full-size-van-obs-1988-1999-full-size-chevy-tool-steel-oversized-bushing-door-pin-kit-customizable OBS 90s Full Size Chevy Tool Steel Oversized Bushing Door Pin Kit Customizable This...

Ccurrently have high quality bronze bushings from Cunningham Machine. They fixed most of the problem, but not all. I believe the rest is due to the hinge hole being worn. I ordered .02” oversized stainless bushings and pins from Endura Pin. May have to ream the hole a bit to get the bushings in...

Latch and latch pin are fine as both were recently replaced: The play is in the lower bushing of the lower hinge:

I’ve lifted the door and you can’t see the play at the hinges. While off-roading, you can see the door moving, or it’s the body flexing.